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Thread: Knots & Dyneema

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    Knots & Dyneema

    Hey everybody. I have been searching for information regarding knots and dyneema and I cant seem to find any definitive information other than, don't tie knots in dyneema, use splicing. I was wanting to put 2 fixed or adjustable loops on the ends of a length of Zlines Slick Dyneema 2.2mm. I would like the knots to affect the strength of the cordage as little as possible obviously. They do not need to be adjustable (they can be fixed), but if they are adjustable it is not a deal breaker. I was thinking a hangman's noose with 9 wraps would provide enough friction to prevent slippage, however I worry that it would weaken the dyneema quite a bit seeing as how the first bend in the knot is also the load bearing point and quite severe. I also came across 2 additional ways to tie a hangman's noose, in addition to the way that I have tied it for years so I am not sure which causes the least reduction in strength or the most secure hold. Any specific knots or any links to resources that may assist me would be greatly appreciated. I am willing to give splicing a try if that is hands down the best way to go, however I would like to have an option that could be prepared in the field without specific tools. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    Any knot will derate a line.

    That said, 2.2mm cord is fairly easy to make a bury, I use a single strand of 24g network wire...

    There are lots of threads here, or you can go to samson rope's website and get instructions.

    You're looking to make a locked brummel for a fixed eye, or a whoopie sling for one side fixed, the other adjustable. Though a UCR would give you better length since you're not opening up a loop...


    John
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


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    I have looked around and found the countless threads on the Amsteel stuff, but I wasn't sure if this Zline Slick Dyneema would work in the same fashion. It seems like it has 6 strands, and it is advertised as being coated to make it even more slippery. Thanks, Ill keep searching.

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    New Member dave p's Avatar
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    This is the knot I use for dyneema, both sheathed and unsheathed. I haven't had any problems with it, but then again, I wasn't hanging from it.


    http://www.ultimatespearfishing.com/...arfishing.html

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    Thanks Dave P, thats sort of what I was looking for. A fixed loop utility knot that doesn't degrade the strength drastically that can be field prepared. Not sure how you get by with only 24 gauge wire, I am sitting here with my lm wave, 24 gauge wire, 2 sewing needles, tape... still can't get the bury done. Wire slips off the dyneema before I even get it into the bury.

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    I use 1.75 dyneema line for lots of various rope tools and carry a little 3 inch bent piece of fine piano wire which works great for field splicing. A splice, even in 2.2 mm line, with practice wont take up much more time than tying a good knot and will be significantly stronger.
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    Any suggestions on how you secure the end you are trying to bury to your wire?

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    CryOTheWild's Avatar
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    First, use a wire that can fit easily within the dyneema when folded in half. This means if you are using wire or a needle that is straight and too thick when folded in half you will need something much thinner. I first used a paper clip which I drew thinner and thinner but it got to be too fragile. Piano wire works best IMHO both thin and very strong. When the wire is folded in half, push the bent end of the wire through the dyneema at the bury as many inches as needed then expose the bent end and put the loose end of cord into the bent end of wire and pull wire back out the way it came. I'll do a detailed video this week on splicing 1.75 dyneema to share on HF.
    Wisconsin Winter Hang 2014 https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...t=81556&page=2

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    Outstanding, I managed to try some different wires with different results, as far as what I have on hand I found some solid core copper wire that is perfect. The problem I am having now is I just cant fit the bury inside the.. bury pocket? I have tapered the bury down to 50% of the strands for 50% of the bury and I still cant get it to come through. I guess I have another 42 feet to get it down, but so far same problem for the past 3 hours. The 2 hours before that were wire problems, now its bury problems.

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    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    I don't know what you have, but the z line I just bought has a Spectra core with an outer sheath, very similar to Speer No-Tangle. It is not easily spliced.
    Dave

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