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  1. #21
    i've used the stuff a good bit. you can use a larks head on the end of the hammock.
    while a double sheetbend slips when tied to raw hammock fabric, tying the single braid dyneema to your tree straps with a slipped double sheetbend works great, and i've been tying directly to a single steel ring on the end of a tree strap with a slipped buntline hitch with great success.

    we are talking about 2 different setups here. a larks head can be used to quickly connect and disconnect line from the suspension point. the suspension point needs to have some sort of ballish mass to jam in the back of the hitch though. the mass can be created a number of ways. standard whipping, cinching and tying off a threaded hem, zip tie etc., but the sheetbend method does not require this end mass, you are tying the fabric and the line together just like if you were tying 2 lines together.
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 08-27-2008 at 00:03.

  2. #22
    youngblood, if i wanted to try heat shrink tubing, could i get it locally at say home depot, or do you oder it online?

  3. #23
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    some is listed in Radio Shack's on-line shop. I would not be surprised if they carried it. It is often used for protecting wire joints. Automotive places will use it for wiring harnesses as well. It should be easy to find.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  4. #24
    Mrprez's Avatar
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    All good advise.

    I did not experience any issues with the Double Fishermans knot. Once it all tightened up there was no further movement.

    I did try the sheet bend with the hammock material and used the fishermans knot to "lock" the bend in place so that the tag end cannot slip out of the knot. I haven't hung from it though but will set it up this morning and give it a try. Here's a pic showing the sheet bend.



    I also cut this rope with a hot knife and at first glance, it looked like it worked, now that I examine the cut ends, you can see where it is starting to fray. The factory cut ends appear to have been cut with a hot knife though and they appear to be fine. I'll try the heat shrink tubing.


    John

  5. #25
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    I have found that if I really put the lighter flame to the amsteel it will bubble up and melt decently, but it really needs to be held there for a while comparatively.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  6. #26
    Dutch's Avatar
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    I have to get a book on knots
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  7. #27
    mrprez, good idea using the double fishermen's as a stopper knot to keep the sheetbend from slipping.

  8. #28
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    Brandon,

    I have heat shrink tubing in my old tool boxes but I found some hobbyist quantity heat shrink tubing in the electrical department at my Home Depot. It is 3/8" polyolefin Heat Shrink Tubing and it comes in a small package with a half dozen or so 4" pieces. That is plenty for a hobbyist to play around with this and you only need about 1/2" pieces. I don't remember the exact price but I think it is a dollar or so. It looks good and the tip being stiff is probably a bigger plus than it is a minus. You will appreciate it when inserting it into the loops of tree huggers.

    Here are few photos of what I did. The first two photos are front and back of the triple sheet bend. The third one is a partial explosion of the backed up bow line.

    The bow line is tied off about as close to the hammock knot as I felt I could and still equalize the loading on both ends of the sheet bend. If you notice, that modified sheet bend cinches the knot from both ends, you are taking advantage of the slickness of the rope and letting it work for you. That hammock has been loaded and the rope stretches when it is initially loaded. Also, when the knot tightens up you can get some more rope. What I am getting at is that I tied the bow line closer to the hammock knot than where it ends up after the hammock has been loaded-- you want to tie it closer that what you see in that picture to end up with it as close as you would like. If it is too far away I worry that you will risk the triple sheet bend loosening up during handling and storing. If you tie the bow line off close to the hammock knot, it looks to be a solid knot... so far.

    I backed up that 'slippery bow line' without the final knot being slippery. I did that because that is not a knot I figure on untying. When I use a bow line on the other end of the hammock suspension line to tie it to a tree hugger, I do it a little differently so the final knot is slippery. To do that you just put another loop into the normal slippery bow line loop and cinch it up instead of the end of the cord.
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    Last edited by Youngblood; 08-27-2008 at 08:31. Reason: grammer and spelling
    Youngblood AT2000

  9. #29
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    i've used the stuff a good bit. you can use a larks head on the end of the hammock.
    while a double sheetbend slips when tied to raw hammock fabric, tying the single braid dyneema to your tree straps with a slipped double sheetbend works great,
    You know I tried that once with the Vectran I have, and the loop around the slipped bight had jammed so tightly I very nearly couldn't get the slip pulled out. However, owing to RamblinRev's observation about the properness of "direction" in sheetbends, I did a bit of research and discovered to my horror that my muscle memory for the knot does it the wrong way. After all these years...so perhaps that is a contributing factor to this jam.

    and i've been tying directly to a single steel ring on the end of a tree strap with a slipped buntline hitch with great success.
    Had to look up buntline hitch. "Oh" sez I, "One of _those_". Well if that works for your one ring at the end of tree webbing, it ought to work for the biner I have at the end of my hammock (the other end of my suspension cord is looped over a Marlinspike hitch at the tree). And if it does, then I can do without the ring I put on the cord to make an anchor point for a trucker's hitch. Gonna give it try next time I get to hang...

    I wonder if this tinkering ever ends?

    Grizz

  10. #30
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffjenn View Post
    Do the Amsteel like cords hold double fishermans knots well. If so couldn't a loop be made with the fishermans knot, then prussiked to the rings & larks headed to the hammock? I guess if the fishermans knot works the larks head on the hammock is the next question of slipping.
    I am using Amsteel Blue in my SLS with the fisherman's knot on the piece of cord on the hammock and they have held just fine.
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