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  1. #31
    Senior Member stoikurt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HANGnOUT View Post
    I think I am going to try this with my next setup. Why not just eliminate the biners and run the strap thru the loop then to the rings?
    This is what I've been doing too since I got the buckles. I have noticed that the strap is getting a little fuzzy at the loop and it can cinch down pretty tight some times, making it a little more difficult to loosen. The biner would prolly put less stress on the strap and loosen quicker and I can see it being a little quicker still.
    Stoikurt
    "Work to Live...Don't Live to Work!"

  2. #32
    Senior Member Just Jeff's Avatar
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    As I get more field use, I'm going to pay special attention to whether the biner puts pressure on the tree. If the metal is right against the tree it might damage a thin-barked tree. But maybe an extra wrap around the biner when I clip it in would keep the biner away from the tree.
    “Republics are created by the virtue, public spirit, and intelligence of the citizens. They fall when the wise are banished from the public councils because they dare to be honest, and the profligate are rewarded because they flatter the people, in order to betray them.” ~Judge Joseph Story

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    IMPOSSIBLE JUST TAKES LONGER

  3. #33
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    I thought about that. It is going to interesting to see my gear from start to finish. I might have to post that in the humor section when I get back.

    Really big savers would be my camera, headlamp, rain gear, sleeping bag. I could save a pound there. Frogg toggs would only get me 4 or 5 oz, plus I wear my raincoat all the time as a windbreaker. Sleeping bag for a quilt.

    The problem is things that I need for a thru, but not for a dayhike. Cell phone charger, pocketmail, and a couple other things you can go a weekend without but not a thru.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
    The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoikurt View Post
    This is what I've been doing too since I got the buckles. I have noticed that the strap is getting a little fuzzy at the loop and it can cinch down pretty tight some times, making it a little more difficult to loosen. The biner would prolly put less stress on the strap and loosen quicker and I can see it being a little quicker still.

    You might be able to reinforce the loop with more webbing. I'll let you guys argue the sticking weakening vs the 2nd layer webbing strength.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
    The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".

  5. #35
    Member speyguy's Avatar
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    It's a good setup. I got mine and my sons converted recently. I used "D" rings and opted for webbing on both sides of the "D" rings though instead of cord. I also run the webbing around the tree and thru the loop before passing it back thru the rings. This really makes it easy for my young son. No knots or tying, and adjustment to sag or hammock height is so easy.

  6. #36
    Senior Member blackbishop351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speyguy View Post
    It's a good setup. I got mine and my sons converted recently. I used "D" rings and opted for webbing on both sides of the "D" rings though instead of cord. I also run the webbing around the tree and thru the loop before passing it back thru the rings. This really makes it easy for my young son. No knots or tying, and adjustment to sag or hammock height is so easy.
    Where did you find load-rated D-rings? I've looked for those and haven't had any luck so far.
    "Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

  7. #37
    Senior Member FanaticFringer's Avatar
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    I'm gonna give this set-up a try. I just ordered the D rings and carbiners.
    My sewn webbing loops should be ready tomorrow from the alterations place.
    I'll leave about 2 feet of spectra on my Hyperlight at both ends to not only tie to the D rings but as Jeff suggested to have the option of being able to use the tarp prussik loops.
    "Every day above ground is a good day"

  8. #38
    Senior Member stoikurt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammock engineer View Post
    You might be able to reinforce the loop with more webbing. I'll let you guys argue the sticking weakening vs the 2nd layer webbing strength.
    The fuzzing at the webbing loop has not been a problem so far. Just something to keep an eye on.
    Stoikurt
    "Work to Live...Don't Live to Work!"

  9. #39
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Just posted this over on my thread on Sgt Rocks site.

    Two points about the double ring buckle:

    1. Found another source for rings. These are Stainless Steel. 1 1" diameter for 1" webbing weighs as much as 2 of the AL descending rings. Disadvantage: weight. Advantage: size. 1" diameter vs. 1.5" for the AL descending rings. Web site: Annapolis Performance Sailing (A good source for cord and rope also)

    http://www.apsltd.com

    The rings are listed here:

    http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e814.asp

    The 1" SS rings are rated at 1430 lbs working load, breaking load 4400 lbs, so should work for the suspension. I have 4 on order along with some rope I ordered. I am pretty sure I will stick with the descending rings, but want to try the SS.

    2. Releasing the double ring buckles can get tricky. The cam locks were a lot easier to release. Found a real easy way to release the double ring buckles - as easy, if not easier, than the cam locks:

    Think slipping a knot. To slip a knot to make it easy to untie, when you make the final tuck of the working end through the final loop, tuck a bight instead of the end of the cord/rope. Do the same with the double ring buckles - on the final tuck behind and under the bottom ring, tuck a bight instead of the end of the webbing. This accomplishes 2 things: 1. you don't have to thread the remainder of the webbing through, just the bight - if you use long webbing like I do to accommodate a lot of situations - I use 12' of webbing for each end, then you can have a LOT of webbing remaining, and 2. to release the buckle, just pull on the loose working end. That pulls the bight back through. I can pull the entire bight out and totally release the buckle or just pull a little to loosen.

    No matter how tight the double ring buckle gets pulled, using a bight on the final tuck makes releasing the buckle very simple and very easy.

    This change makes the double ring buckle easier for me to use than the cam locks were. Tucking the bight couldn't be done with the cam locks and I always had to thread the entire remaining webbing through the cam lock buckle. Tucking a bight on the double ring buckle means that I ALWAYS am threading the minimum of webbing - much, much quicker. Any other buckle I have reviewed such as the Crazy Creek buckles are like the cam locks - tucking a bight doesn't work.

    Hope this helps others that are using or thinking of using the double ring buckle.
    Last edited by TeeDee; 02-08-2007 at 16:43.

  10. #40
    slowhike's Avatar
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    i bought two Omega Pacific MSB 20kN AB rings today.
    it's all they had in winston-salem. i haven't weighed them yet, but i'm sure they are a little heaver than the ones jeff showed.
    seems like someone else showed a link to them but i don't see it now.
    they work great!
    one thing i learned is that the webbing needs to stay strait, in-line w/ it's self or it will slip. so i ran a bite back through the rings just to keep it strait. took a rest (oh, the life of a tester)... no prob.
    probably the only reason it pulled to the side is because i didnt want to use the wal-mart webbing & i don't have any of ed's right now, so i used some tubular which is much heaver. so just the weight of the tubular webbing pulled it to one side when there's no weight in the hammock.
    but now i'm going to try using the bight like suggested in the last post. should accomplish the same thing.
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

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