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  1. #11
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    If that thread is heavy, then it will retain a lot of spring from the stiffness. But it is only Tex40, medium strength for buttonholing. Maybe it is bonded, the treatment reducing its limpness.

    But, I've gone through bobbins full of Tex69 and Tex92 threads in a Class 15 home machine, without the problem you show, which looks like a spinning reel after a cast not concluded with a thumb on the reel. I've been lucky, or maybe sewing more slowly, or maybe winding the bobbins more slowly and smoothly than your sm does.

  2. #12
    but enough about me hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Right DemostiX. It's only Tex 40 and not stiff at all.

    Ever fix something by taking it apart, looking at it, and putting it back together?

    I think I have it solved by cleaning. Had cleaned it not that long ago and didn't think it needed it but it's running much better now and I can go faster. Even sounds better.

    I hope that's solved it...

    HFG
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  3. #13
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    I agree with giving it a good cleaning and inspect carefully for burrs on the rotating hook, etc.

    Triple check that the bobbin is put in with the thread coming off of it in the correct direction.

    FWIW, I routinely sew 1.0-1.9 ripstop with Mara 70 and a #11 needle so I doubt you need a larger needle.

  4. #14
    but enough about me hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Right. I usually use a #12 on ripstop, but this #10 is new and working fine.

    I must have blown something out that was jamming it up.

    So far so good!
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  5. #15
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    The wife and I still come back to a winding problem. Make sure you are threading the machine properly to wind the bobbin. There is a tension mechanism the thread goes through. Sometimes it is the usual tension discs but I think more often it is a separate thingie. That keeps the bobbin winding properly at the right tension to make the layers smooth. Also make sure your bobbins are not damaged. Any spurs or rough spots on the sidewalls and create problems with the winding pattern. Bobbins need to be replaced after a lot of use. Admittedly it is not an every day or every month kind of thing, but it couldn't hurt to inspect them every 6 months or so and replace them every year or two. Especially the plastic ones.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  6. #16
    but enough about me hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    The wife and I still come back to a winding problem. Make sure you are threading the machine properly to wind the bobbin. There is a tension mechanism the thread goes through. Sometimes it is the usual tension discs but I think more often it is a separate thingie. That keeps the bobbin winding properly at the right tension to make the layers smooth. Also make sure your bobbins are not damaged. Any spurs or rough spots on the sidewalls and create problems with the winding pattern. Bobbins need to be replaced after a lot of use. Admittedly it is not an every day or every month kind of thing, but it couldn't hurt to inspect them every 6 months or so and replace them every year or two. Especially the plastic ones.
    Thanks for putting your thinking caps on! So do you think I'm winding too tight or just unevenly?

    I will definitely check that out and as I've gone through several bobbins on this project, I need to wind some anyway. I'll definitely inspect them as well.

    Thanks again RR
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  7. #17
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hppyfngy View Post
    So do you think I'm winding too tight or just unevenly?
    More likely not tightly enough. That would allow the layers to shift in the bobbin and bind each other.

    Be careful about overfilling them. Usually at least 1/16" needs to be left empty on the bobbin spool. In theory the winder should self cancel when the bobbin is full... but you know theories.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

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    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  8. #18
    but enough about me hppyfngy's Avatar
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    RR, you certainly have vastly more experience than I do but I'm confused about this theory based on what I'm observing.

    When this happens, it acts as if the feed is slipping. In other words, as if the fabric were not being fed properly. The fabric seems to suddenly slow it's pace being fed and in half a dozen stitches, grinds to a halt.

    However, if I switch to a thicker cotton material, I can zip through it at much greater speed with no problems. Same thread, needle and bobbin.

    Now I freely admit that I don't fully understand what goes on under the throat plate. As far as I can decipher there may as well be Gremlins or even Black Magic at work under there. I mean I know what happens, but it's almost unfathomable to me how it happens so fast.

    So I will defer to your superior knowledge and accept that it's either user error, a not so great machine or whatever, but I don't really understand why it works flawlessly on one material and not on this thinner slipperier one, unless it's simply slipping and then binding up.

    I'll redo my bobbins though and let you all know the results. Tomorrow. I think I'm done for the day.

    Time to splice some amsteel. I can wrap my head around that!

    Thanks again!
    HFG
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  9. #19
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    You know that the tagline someone here uses, 'The tension makes it work", must have originated with a sewist cracking wise.

    As long as the tensions are balanced between the one on the bobbin thread and the one up top, you can sew and all is cool. ( I'm not saying the stitch will be optimal if they are both loose or both tight, but allow me, so I can get to the point

    You know that the tension on top is supposed to be set by the discs the thread passes through, and that posts and threading prior to that are there just to set a smooth stage, not to add tension to what will be supplied and released by the discs. Well, there's a similar thing going on in the bobbin case. If , as per my previous paragraph, the tension is set high, variations in the tension of the thread coming off the bobbin will be somewhat swamped by the tensions in the bobbin case and high offsetting tension up top. But, if the tension in the bobbin case is just right-- as it is supposed to be -- then variations in bobbin winding and snags of thread coming off buried layers on the bobbin will cause the stitches to be irregular in quality. And you could also get just what you were seeing: the thread stretches a bit -- and poly will, per spec, by 10-20% --, energy gets stored in the bobbin, and then the snag releases, causing the bobbin to spin forward, un-spooling thread and giving you that spool mess.

    Well, that's one explanation for it. Which might even be correct, as I'm learning a lot by doing a lot that's wrong......including setting high bobbin tensions to give me some range in setting tension up top.

    One other thing: Some would use one size larger needle than you are for tex40-size thread. And there ARE variations between brands and between needle types in the size of the hole for a given size needle. That is not to say you should use some size or type, but that when you change to another that you think is the same, you may get different results because the eye is different.
    Last edited by DemostiX; 07-28-2012 at 00:34.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hppyfngy View Post
    ...but I don't really understand why it works flawlessly on one material and not on this thinner slipperier one, unless it's simply slipping and then binding up...
    In theory, the lighter fabric should require less tension on the thread, although I don't see this causing your problem. It won't hurt to experiment.

    I'm guessing the slowing of the fabric feed indicates things are going wrong with the bobbin thread rather than the slowing down causing the fowl up below.

    How a stitch is formed...may help you understand how this happens.

    Edit...Demo's post makes some good points. The stitch is formed so fast that it takes very little to throw it off sometimes. I would try going back to size 12 needle if that worked in the past.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 07-27-2012 at 21:06.

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