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  1. #21
    Needs more Hang time Catavarie's Avatar
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    Perhaps my eyes are going bad, or the fact that my work monitor just sucks, but I'm not seeing the problem with the brummel end, nor the "wrong end" being connected to the hammock. Of course if you guys can see it I'm not arguing and this could be the genesis for the whole issue.

    And if this is the case then an easy fix would be to either just do a brummel on the free end and switch the attachment to the hammock, or turn the whole thing into a UCR.

    Quote Originally Posted by bowl-maker View Post
    I respectfully disagree...in my experience Amsteel does not hold knots well. if the splicing is done properly there should be no need for a structural knot.
    I agree, a proper splice shouldn't need a structural knot. Of course I don't consider a slip knot of any kind as structural. But what it does is creates a larger object against the bury. This of course only works with a proper whoopie sling.

    I've always used a slippery half hitch at the end of my bury, mostly to get any extra line off the ground and to create a nice drip point for any rain. I rely on the bury to do the actual work of holding. But a backup, even a weak one is better than nothing. Of course I've always been a belt and suspenders kinda guy.
    *Heaven best have trees, because I plan to lounge for eternity.

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  2. #22
    Senior Member ibgary's Avatar
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    The only time mine slipped, and its only about 6", was when I ran the sling through a piece of webbing without using a ring or biener.

  3. #23
    olddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilder setx View Post
    here are some pics
    Wilder, looks like you have a TurtleDog Stand. Would you like me to add it to the list?
    Most of us end up poorer here but richer for being here. Olddog, Fulltime hammocker, 365 nights a year.

  4. #24
    Senior Member HamMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    Milking the outer section is absolutely neccessary.
    After you do any adjustments to a whoopie, always "milk" the outer section to its fullest length. The outer section "accordian" or chinese finger trap effect is the essential grasping device. Without it milked out to its full length it does not grab effectively. Milk it out long and see if it helps.


    In reality the taper is suggested by the manufacturer to reduce stress where the rope transitions in size from double thick to single thick rope.
    Thank you Randy! I was just going through the whole thread and was goin to make the same point.
    "He who makes a beast of himself, gets rid of the pain of being a man." Dr. Hunter S. Thompson

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  5. #25
    Senior Member HamMike's Avatar
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    Yeah It's a little difficult to tell by the pics(eyes gettin old). I'm onboard with the consensus that if your fixed eye is on the line that is inside the adjustable loop bury assembly then your not getting the constriction you need to hold that line. Another suggestion based on tour pics would be to shorten the distance between your fixed eye and where your adjustable line comes out. This will give you more flexibilty in adjustment. In general they should be about 18in long when pulled in to the shortest length. Hope you get it worked out.
    "He who makes a beast of himself, gets rid of the pain of being a man." Dr. Hunter S. Thompson

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  6. #26
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl-maker View Post
    I respectfully disagree...in my experience Amsteel does not hold knots well. if the splicing is done properly there should be no need for a structural knot.
    Actually, a slippery half hitch is very commonly used to back up the bury. It's not structural and holds very well in amsteel. I ALWAYS back up my bury with two slippery half hitches. It's just to make sure the bury doesn't slip. I think I learned this from one of Shug's videos or some other video on using whoopie slings (?)
    Last edited by Pipsissewa; 10-14-2012 at 09:23.
    "Pips"
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  7. #27
    first off, i cant tell you how much i appreciate all the help im getting with this.

    i made picture diagram to help me understand.
    i know my termonology is all wrong but this should help me out.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
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    The good news is you have it made and attached correctly. The bad news is you have it made and attached correctly and it slips. I am greatly surprised a bury that long can slip...it shouldn't...and I don't have any help to offer other than to "milk" the constrictor both directions.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The good news is you have it made and attached correctly. The bad news is you have it made and attached correctly and it slips. I am greatly surprised a bury that long can slip...it shouldn't...and I don't have any help to offer other than to "milk" the constrictor both directions.
    ^^^^^
    Ditto. I have no explanation for your whoopies slipping. Milk the bury flat, add two stacked slippery half hitches and you should be okay. Good luck!
    "Pips"
    Mountains have a dreamy way
    Of folding up a noisy day
    In quiet covers, cool and gray.

    ---Leigh Buckner Hanes

    Surely, God could have made a better way to sleep.

    Surely, God never did.

  10. #30
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilder setx View Post
    first off, i cant tell you how much i appreciate all the help im getting with this.

    i made picture diagram to help me understand.
    i know my terminology is all wrong but this should help me out.
    So it looks like your whoopie is not built backwards. However, I don't understand section 1 at all. What is that thing sticking out? And why the bead on the fixed loop? I doubt this has anything to do with slipping whoopies - just curious.

    I think your problem is that your adjustable bury is long, and you need to milk the slack out of the bury (what you call outside sheath 3) down toward section 1 once you've adjust the loop in section 3. If you're not milking out the slack, it's going to slip. The outside sheath 3 has be be taut against inside sheath 1 and 2 or it won't grab.

    The older the whoopie gets, the less you'll have to mess with this. On newer whoopies I've had to do this.

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