Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 80
  1. #11
    WV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    southeast WV
    Hammock
    DIY
    Posts
    3,689
    Images
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by hammock_monk View Post
    I am planning straight sides of equal length; is that a mistake? If not, I don't see why pleats are needed.

    I think the three inches you refer to is the 78" body versus 81" to include seam allowances.
    I usually make the bottom layer of my insulated hammocks about 6" longer than the hammock bed because there's a lengthwise curve in addition to the side to side curve you have allowed for. You should probably solicit advice from people with more specific underquilt experience than I have, though.

  2. #12
    MAD777's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    Hammock
    DIY, WBBB & Switchback
    Tarp
    HG cuben,OES Spinn
    Insulation
    DIY down 3/4 UQ/TQ
    Suspension
    Dynaglide & Dutch
    Posts
    8,568
    Images
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    I usually make the bottom layer of my insulated hammocks about 6" longer than the hammock bed because there's a lengthwise curve in addition to the side to side curve you have allowed for. You should probably solicit advice from people with more specific underquilt experience than I have, though.
    +1 on WV's approach. You need at least 5" additional length in the outer shell just to make up for the 2.5" baffle height at each end.
    Last edited by MAD777; 10-16-2012 at 07:58.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  3. #13
    MAD777's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    Hammock
    DIY, WBBB & Switchback
    Tarp
    HG cuben,OES Spinn
    Insulation
    DIY down 3/4 UQ/TQ
    Suspension
    Dynaglide & Dutch
    Posts
    8,568
    Images
    39
    It has been my experience that I loose about 5% of length and width. So I would plan on 42"x82" so that the finished dimension would be 40"x78". It may be just the way that I sew?

    I would also make the baffle height 2.25" at most in order ti jnsure that the down dowsn't migrate. I'm a bit of a stickler for that though
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  4. #14
    hammock_monk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Hammock
    Darien UL
    Tarp
    HG Cuben Fiber
    Insulation
    Winter bag/DIY UQ
    Suspension
    whoopies/dutchware
    Posts
    313
    Images
    15
    Thanks for the latest tips. I've been studying the Wilderness Logics Full Length Under Quilt, as I was planning to buy materials--at least down--from them. Between the features of that UQ and the points made by WV and MAD777 here, I have been rethinking shapes and dimensions. Find attached the new design for the inner layer of the quilt. Will work on the outer layer tomorrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hammock_monk; 10-15-2012 at 23:49. Reason: Added photo.

  5. #15
    hammock_monk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Hammock
    Darien UL
    Tarp
    HG Cuben Fiber
    Insulation
    Winter bag/DIY UQ
    Suspension
    whoopies/dutchware
    Posts
    313
    Images
    15

    Exclamation

    Okay, I think I have finalized the design (it's sure easier to change things on paper, before cutting). Attached are three images: 1. Inner Layer; 2. Outer Layer; 3. Both, side by side.

    The outer layer includes an additional 4 inches to sides and length to account for the 2 inch baffles, as well as 8 inches for the arc of the baffle chamber. The baffle chamber is made up of (near center of quilt) 5 1/2" inner layer, 2" baffle walls, and 6" outer layer (forming the arc).

    I'd be happy to get additional feedback on the design (I've been a bit surprised not to get more feedback), but I am now moving on to ...

    Materials: I am thinking 1.1 nylon for both layers and noseeum baffles. 1/8" shock cord for suspension, with cord traveling through end channels on the quilt. I am thinking of Wilderness Logics for those materials, plus 850 down. But please let me know your opinion on both materials and vendors. I look forward to hearing from your experience before I pull the trigger--remember, I am buying material for not one, but two quilts.

    Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    hammock_monk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Hammock
    Darien UL
    Tarp
    HG Cuben Fiber
    Insulation
    Winter bag/DIY UQ
    Suspension
    whoopies/dutchware
    Posts
    313
    Images
    15
    I pulled the trigger and ordered 24 ounces of down this morning. I'm in the process of placing my order for fabric. Once the materials arrive I hope to document the manufacturing process with photos. Once I'm done I'll put together a complete DIY guide.

  7. #17
    Senior Member FLScouthanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Crestview, FL
    Hammock
    ENO Sngl & Dbl, GT UL, hk2001DL1.1
    Tarp
    DIY, GTFF, GG
    Insulation
    IX, PLUQ
    Suspension
    Straps, Rings, WSs
    Posts
    249
    Enjoyed looking at all the iterations of your plans. The planning should save you time in construction once the materials arrive. Hope to see the in-progress photos soon. Best of luck!

  8. #18
    Senior Member Les Rust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Athens, TN
    Hammock
    ENO DN--DIY 1.1 dbl
    Tarp
    WL Big Daddy
    Insulation
    AHE UQ/DIY TQ
    Suspension
    AHE Webs/whoopies
    Posts
    924
    Your drawings look great. Having been in the building trades for quite some time, I have always believed that good drawings are priceless in terms of avoiding mistakes and thereby overruns in time and materials. Wilderness Logics are a good bet to work with. Looking forward to your end results. Take a few pics along the way for us as well, please. Hope it turns out great!

  9. #19
    Wolfman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Everett, WA
    Hammock
    Currently; WBBB XLC
    Tarp
    HH Asym Hex Fly
    Insulation
    Pads
    Suspension
    Whoopys & Straps
    Posts
    75
    Just found this thread and your designs. Very impressed so far. A few questions if you don't mind.

    1) Triangle Folds?
    In your drawings, the triangle folds are on the bottom of the under quilt, correct? Would you not need then on the top too? (Note: I am very new to all this and sewing is very new to me.) But to me it looks like the baffles will have a 4 1/2" top and a 5 1/2" bottom? Also what do you plan to do with the fold of material? Would it become part of the baffle wall or just extra material?

    2) No See-em?
    Any reasons that you are planning on using the bug netting for the baffle walls? I thought it was heaver and harder to work with then normal ripstop? More information on this would be great!

    3) Materials?
    Down vs. man made materials? Down is lighter right? I live in the PNW and I have nothing of Down, to much water around here. I worry about it getting damp or wet and becoming worthless. I know hammock should not be effected by rain and humidity, but I still worry about it. Also, the ripstop you are planning on using is not treated for water, correct?

    Wolf

  10. #20
    hammock_monk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Hammock
    Darien UL
    Tarp
    HG Cuben Fiber
    Insulation
    Winter bag/DIY UQ
    Suspension
    whoopies/dutchware
    Posts
    313
    Images
    15
    Wolfman, thanks for your interest. Some of this will become more clear as I post photos. In the meantime:
    1) Triangle Folds?
    In your drawings, the triangle folds are on the bottom of the under quilt, correct? Would you not need then on the top too? (Note: I am very new to all this and sewing is very new to me.) But to me it looks like the baffles will have a 4 1/2" top and a 5 1/2" bottom? Also what do you plan to do with the fold of material? Would it become part of the baffle wall or just extra material?
    The outer layer material is wider then the inner, to allow for the curved outer surface of the down chamber: If you look at CatSplat's spreadsheet you will see an illustration--the chamber is like a "D" with the outer layer represented by the curved side of the D. I think that some commercially produced products are more sophisticated but I'm sticking to what I think I can do.

    So, the issue with the folds arises because, as I near the ends of the quilt, I want the end length of both layers to be equal--in other words, the corners should line up, but because of the extra width of the outer layer won't, unless I add darts or folds. MAD777 has said that the folds are no big problem for him when he sews; I'll show a photo of how I treat them when I get to that. I'm not sure where they'll end up.

    Both layers do have narrowed ends--the middle of the quilt is wider than the head and foot ends--but that extra material is just cut away as scrap from the corners, as you can see in my illustrations.
    2) No See-em?
    Any reasons that you are planning on using the bug netting for the baffle walls? I thought it was heaver and harder to work with then normal ripstop? More information on this would be great!
    I asked this question somewhere, too, and I think I got no answer. Honestly, I am using noseeum mostly because that's what it looks like most others here have done. I'd be very happy to have my quilt turn out as well as one by Dutch, MAD777 or others. But also, I expect the noseeum to allow air to pass easily from chamber to chamber, helping with lofting and compression for stuff sacking. Maybe someone else will chime in with other reasons?
    3) Materials?
    Down vs. man made materials? Down is lighter right? I live in the PNW and I have nothing of Down, to much water around here. I worry about it getting damp or wet and becoming worthless. I know hammock should not be effected by rain and humidity, but I still worry about it. Also, the ripstop you are planning on using is not treated for water, correct?
    I am in the Pacific Northwest, too, and share your concern about wet conditions. But, while I try to use mostly synthetics for my teenager, I love down. In the case of these quilts, I am using down in large part for the added compressibility. Finally, though I have not yet placed my order--waiting for a return email from supplier--my plan is to use calendared but untreated ripstop for inner layer (highly breathable) and Durable Water Resistant (DWR) ripstop for outer layer (still breathable but with some resistance to groundsplash. Mostly, I intend to be sure my tarp is properly dialed in to keep the quilt dry.

    Thanks again for your interest. I hope I have answered your questions to your satisfaction.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •