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  1. #21
    Wolfman's Avatar
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    hammock_monk, thank you! Great information and I am really looking forward to seeing how this all comes together.

    The mesh actually makes since for inside the quilt, I did not think about air movement and getting it into and out of a stuff sack. I think the mesh would help a lot in that respect.

    It seems that just about everyone uses down, at least for quilts and the like. I don't think I have ever used down other then in the military and that was not very high quality stuff. I just have always used the synthetics for my bags. Now that I am moving to hammocks, (As soon as I figure out what I am going to do for a hammock) I guess I will have to stare looking at down too. I know it's a lot lighter and warmer too, or so I hear.

    Again thanks for the answers and I look forward to following this build!


    Wolf

  2. #22
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    I just came across this thread, and wanted to offer some encouragement. There are a lot of threads about making quilts on here, but I don't think any of them cover all of the little details. When I made mine, I spent a lot of time trying to piece it all together.

    Quote Originally Posted by hammock_monk View Post
    ...I expect the noseeum to allow air to pass easily from chamber to chamber, helping with lofting and compression for stuff sacking. Maybe someone else will chime in with other reasons?
    I think that's the main reason. It's fairly lightweight, air passes easily through it, but it keeps the bulk of the down from migrating.

    Quote Originally Posted by hammock_monk View Post
    ...waiting for a return email from supplier--my plan is to use calendared but untreated ripstop for inner layer (highly breathable) and Durable Water Resistant (DWR) ripstop for outer layer (still breathable but with some resistance to groundsplash.
    While you're shopping for nylon, be sure to ask your supplier whether it's down-proof. I found when I was shopping for mine that there's some calendared nylon that isn't considered down-proof.

    Good-luck & keep up the good work!

  3. #23
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    This is great info. I want to take a long Thanksgiving and make an UQ. I have a quick question. In using the calc. sheet that you noted I need a little clarity on what dimensions you placed in the baffle measurements. OWB, HC, HB, IWB. Thanks and can't wait on more info.

  4. #24
    dragon360's Avatar
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    Really looking forward to your tutorial. Looking to get a UQ done for a friend for a gift and though I feel I have much of the consepts understood, its the details I want to be sure of!
    The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. - St. Augustine

    Some people feel the rain. Others just get wet.
    - Bob Marley

  5. #25
    WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammock_monk View Post

    The outer layer includes an additional 4 inches to sides and length to account for the 2 inch baffles, as well as 8 inches for the arc of the baffle chamber. The baffle chamber is made up of (near center of quilt) 5 1/2" inner layer, 2" baffle walls, and 6" outer layer (forming the arc).

    I'd be happy to get additional feedback on the design
    I think you're going to be okay, but you might think about the difference in length of the inner and outer layers and allow a bit extra that you can cut off during assembly if it's not needed. The additional length of the outer layer that I suggested was not to account for the baffle height at the ends. It was to account for the lengthwise arc of the underquilt when it's attached to the double curve of the hammock. As I said, my experience is more with insulated hammocks than underquilts, so that differential may be less critical in your project. You can loosen the suspension of an underquilt if the outer layer is pulled tight lengthwise, but that sometimes makes the sides floppy (which can be addressed with side bungees and/or quilt hooks). I have two underquilts from JrB that are just flat parallel tubes, and both can be snugged around a curved hammock with care.

  6. #26
    hammock_monk's Avatar
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    WV, advice noted re lengthwise arc. I'll cut the outer layer long and see how it goes. Thanks.

  7. #27
    WV's Avatar
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    HM,
    I wasn't sure if I should clarify my earlier post because it greatly complicates construction and may not be absolutely necessary. For one thing, to get that lengthwise arc you not only need to make the bottom layer longer, but you also need longer baffles that either curve or have pleats in the upper edge. Further, the lengthwise curve of an occupied hammock isn't regular - it's almost straight at the ends and quite pronounced under the occupant's butt, and the straight section at the foot end is not the same length as the one at the head. If you do decide to build in a lengthwise arc, I'd suggest simply putting 4 or 5 very small pleats (1/2") about 8" apart near the center of the top edge of each baffle. Then cut both the top and bottom layers of fabric a bit long, planning to trim the ends to the proper length after the baffles are sewn to them. To precisely locate the baffles, measure the bottom of an occupied hammock.

    Is this worth doing? Maybe. Ideally it keeps the bottom layer from compressing the insulation - guess where? Under your butt.

    One other note: people who have added crosswise end buffers to keep the hammock pleats from letting in cold air usually rave about them.

    As always, HYOH. I have two sayings that float around in my head when I start working on projects like this:

    "The perfect is the enemy of the good."

    and

    "Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess." (I made this one up.)

    Good luck!

  8. #28
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    Monk - When you get your calculations loaded in the Underquilt Calc. can you post. This will help me in processing through what you will be doing. Trust me this is great info and like so many each step is like a good book. What comes next. Thanks

  9. #29
    hammock_monk's Avatar
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    OK, it gets a little weird here but hang in there with me. I have attached a pdf of my data from the quilt spreadsheet. But what I noticed is that its calculation is different than what I find if I model the quilt in Sketchup. I have also attached a picture from that program. As you can see, the maximum chamber height--when the outer wall OWB is 6 inches--varies from 2 3/4 inch (spreadsheet) to 3 1/4 inch (Sketchup), depending on which source you look at. The chamber will vary, too, by width at the head and foot ends.

    Sketchup has been very useful to me through many drafting and design projects. But the quilt spreadsheet has many fans, too. As a result, I have compromised between the two figured on roughly three inches for maximum chamber height when ordering my down. (And used 10 percent overshuffing in the spreadsheet--that way, if the Sketchup data is more accurate I will still have enough down for proper stuffing.

    As much as I would like this to be an exact science, I think a bit of it will be a matter of flying by the seat of my pants. I hope that, by the time I'm done, others can reap the benefits of this and other uncertainties.

    If Cat_Splat or others can explain why the spreadsheet's data does not match the modeling program I'd love to know.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  10. #30
    Wolfman's Avatar
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    Well first thing I noticed in these two "images" (the actual chamber) is that they are not the same in design. The Sketchup arch is a standard(?) arch, I don't remember the names of the different arches right now. And the spread sheet is a vertical arch, where the ends of the arch are inline with the lower wall at the start. This is a BIG difference in windows but probably not so much in down baffles. But the inline arch is a longer arch then the standard arch.

    Are you sewing the top to the baffle's? i.e. The top is one sheet and the baffles are all individual? If so I think Sketchup is more accurate. Now if the baffle was made by sewing two baffles together at the top, then I think the spread sheet would be more accurate.

    Did that make any sense?

    I will see if I can find the difference in eclipses, and the right names.

    Wolf

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