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Thread: I hate Zing-It

  1. #11
    Senior Member Les Rust's Avatar
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    I use a guitar string doubled over and its worked well in 1.75mm. Yes, be sure to taper. Another thing I do is to push the outer part of the bury together BEFORE I begin the process. I find this loosens up the outer portion a bit and makes it a shorter pull when I'm burying. Another trick that I sometimes use is to push a larger needle through the bury first. Yes, patience is a virtue when working the small stuff. Hope this helps and good luck.

  2. #12
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    I'm using irrigation wire. I think it's 24-ga. My main issue with 1.75 is keeping the wire from bending/folding when I'm trying to work it down to where the bury starts since it's so thin. I find that 18-ga floral wire works great for 7/64 amsteel but not much smaller.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrayDog View Post
    A couple of tricks I've found that help.

    1. I use a really long taper and trim the extra length before milking it back into the bury.
    Yup, LONG (>1/2") tapers are the key, minimizes the diameter of what you're pulling through...

    I use a long length of 24ga copper (network wire) stripped and doubled... Make a new tool every time from stuff laying about...

    John

    Oh: And reading glasses help! I also have a dowel I sharpened with a pencil sharpener to open the entry/exit points in the bury. Making a locked brummel is MUCH easier when you can open a large diameter hole...
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  4. #14
    Senior Member gordonfreeman's Avatar
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    How does just folding the wire over keep it from sliding free? I end up taping my amsteel when I do it and it frustrates the heck out of me. Someone mind posting an image of how it looks right before you feed it?

  5. #15
    Moderator raiffnuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordonfreeman View Post
    How does just folding the wire over keep it from sliding free? I end up taping my amsteel when I do it and it frustrates the heck out of me. Someone mind posting an image of how it looks right before you feed it?
    This thread has some great photos on how to make a locked brummel, and the same methods of splicing apply to the adjustable end of the whoopie sling as well.

  6. #16
    Boulderman's Avatar
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    I use a set of doll needles from the fabric store and a golf tee (to enlarge the hole for a locked brummel) - they work great. No folding over problems, I can run a larger size through first, etc. I find it pretty easy to do with these.
    Potential is nothing without hard work.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordonfreeman View Post
    How does just folding the wire over keep it from sliding free? I end up taping my amsteel when I do it and it frustrates the heck out of me. Someone mind posting an image of how it looks right before you feed it?
    1.75 Zing It and nichrome wire taken out of an old blow dryer (or something similar). I like the nichrome because it's fairly stiff for a small diameter wire. Here's a pictorial of pulling a bury. I did not take the time to use a locked brummel for this illustration and no fingers were blistered.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gmcttr; 10-19-2012 at 11:56.

  8. #18
    Moderator raiffnuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    1.75 Zing It and nichrome wire taken out of an old blow dryer (or something similar. I like the nichrome because it's fairly stiff for a small diameter wire...
    Nice job on the photos gmcttr, but where is the locked brummel?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by raiffnuke View Post
    Nice job on the photos gmcttr, but where is the locked brummel?
    Post has been edited. No request was made for a locked brummel...just a bury...quick and dirty as I usually do (OK I'm lazy).

  10. #20
    Moderator raiffnuke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Post has been edited. No request was made for a locked brummel...just a bury...quick and dirty as I usually do (OK I'm lazy).

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