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  1. #21
    natureboy68's Avatar
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    Subscribed! That machines has stories to tell I am sure...I envision a wedding dress sewn on it, babies clothes, maybe the previous owner was a dressmaker?
    Take it slow, and have fun!

  2. #22
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The disks on the tension assembly and the hook and bobbin assemblies are so critical to making a good stitch, that you may ultimately need to replace them and should be easy to find.
    Don't think twice about the disks. Look for the whole tension assembly if you want to get it running. No way you'll be able to salvage those disks. Without them you might as well junk it cause it won't work the way it is supposed to. They need to be glassy smooth.

    The hook might be salvageable with some ultra fine sandpaper. It can be a little pitted and still function within reason. Although baby butt smooth is best. The bobbin assembly should probably be replaced but here again, some ultra fine sand paper may make it serviceable.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  3. #23
    Klaussinator's Avatar
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    10-4 on the tension discs.

    Well, I got the bobbin assembly apart - 3 seperate pcs
    Even the thread tension spring on the bobbin housing is intact and springy, but the adjustment screw is gone. Barely touched the head and it came off.



    -Klauss
    My Blog: http://www.klaussinator.com * Check out the new site! *
    My YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/rexmichaelson

    "Forced ingenuity is the drive of a life well lived."

    "But hey, 2 trees anywhere is a bedroom waiting to happen, right?" ~Wolf

  4. #24
    Pag's Avatar
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    The housing itself needs to be very smooth, so spend some time on that one!
    --If a cow laughs hard, does milk come out its nose?

  5. #25
    Rat's Avatar
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    Coming right along! The pitting can be taken care of with some good old elbow grease and sand paper; or a small power sander like a corner pad/sander. Or just paint it with the hammered look!

    That bobbin assembly might be better served by using a bead plaster or maybe a sand blaster. If you know someone (like a gunsmith) who has a sand/bead blasting cabinet you could use. Those are pretty close tolerance parts and removing too much material will cause problems. Just go slow if using sand/bead blaster; bead blaster will not score like sand blasting and will not, usually, remove base metal.

    As for color scheme; my vote is for a good urban camo pattern!
    "I aim to misbehave." - Capt. Mal Reynolds
    Mind of a Rat Youtube Channel

  6. #26
    Klaussinator's Avatar
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    Hey Rat,
    If it's too far gone to paint, I've got a roll or two of camo duct tape!!!

    -Klauss
    My Blog: http://www.klaussinator.com * Check out the new site! *
    My YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/rexmichaelson

    "Forced ingenuity is the drive of a life well lived."

    "But hey, 2 trees anywhere is a bedroom waiting to happen, right?" ~Wolf

  7. #27
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    Instead of removing extra material by sanding or blasting, i recommend you use evaporust to remove only the rust.

    It's what all the cool kids on the antique/vintage sewing machine forums are using.

    Another option is Electrolytic Rust Removal

  8. #28
    Klaussinator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    It's what all the cool kids on the antique/vintage sewing machine forums are using.
    Oh yeah, baby, THAT'S ME!!! (well, 20 years ago . . . )

    I'll look into those two. I still have some muratic acid left from a vintage VW restoration. Was going to research (first!) if that may work --- any thoughts?

    -Klauss
    My Blog: http://www.klaussinator.com * Check out the new site! *
    My YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/rexmichaelson

    "Forced ingenuity is the drive of a life well lived."

    "But hey, 2 trees anywhere is a bedroom waiting to happen, right?" ~Wolf

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klaussinator View Post
    ...I still have some muratic acid left from a vintage VW restoration. Was going to research (first!) if that may work --- any thoughts?...
    It cleans mortar off of bricks and skin off of...well just about anything that has skin, but I never tried it on rust.

  10. #30
    Rat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Instead of removing extra material by sanding or blasting, i recommend you use evaporust to remove only the rust.

    It's what all the cool kids on the antique/vintage sewing machine forums are using.

    Another option is Electrolytic Rust Removal
    That's some pretty cool stuff; now where's that credit card...

    I especially like the electrolytic removal, kinda like reverse anodizing!
    "I aim to misbehave." - Capt. Mal Reynolds
    Mind of a Rat Youtube Channel

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