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  1. #11
    True that your method will not be the lightest, but I do see some advantages. More contact area on tree = less slippage. Knot to attach whoopie to.
    In fact if you don't tie the knot but instead make your marlin spike hitch with bothe ends even easier.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member SGT Rock's Avatar
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    Knots reduce line strength in rope, I would assume they do the same for straps. Splicing retains more line strength than knots. And I would assume that sewing would do the same for straps as splicing does for line. Based on those assumptions I would say properly sewn straps will be stronger than straps with knots. I am not an engineer.

    I quit using box patterns a while back and when to multiple lines of bar tack stitches. When it starts to fail, the whole thing usually fails at one time. In the Army, our sling load rigs were sewn with multiple lines of stitching so that if a line started to fail at some point, there were lots more lines of them left to take up the load. So now I do one line of stitch for ever 200 pounds of strength I want, with the lines separated by about +/-1/8". So for a 1200 strap I'll put on 6 lines of bar tack stitches and the area it will cover will be about 1" of strap area.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member otter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldRagFreeze View Post
    What knots are you using? The weight will be more regardless, per foot of useable tree strap. Yours may not weigh more than one sewn with the same length of strap, but you have less available to you.
    The knot I use is a marlin spike hitch . You first make a loop in the webbing and then you pull the standing end (the end that will be holding the weight) through the loop. Once you put a carabineer, webbing or something through the knot it will keep it from pulling out. Make sure you pull the standing end through the loop and not the working end though because if you pull the working end through it will not hold even when you get the carabineer, webbing or etc. through it. If done right it uses very little of your webbing.

  4. #14
    Senior Member OldRagFreeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otter View Post
    The knot I use is a marlin spike hitch . You first make a loop in the webbing and then you pull the standing end (the end that will be holding the weight) through the loop. Once you put a carabineer, webbing or something through the knot it will keep it from pulling out. Make sure you pull the standing end through the loop and not the working end though because if you pull the working end through it will not hold even when you get the carabineer, webbing or etc. through it. If done right it uses very little of your webbing.
    Wait, that's the knot you use to attach the strap to the tree or the strap to the whoopie? I use a marlin spike to attach my whoopie, but I still need a loop on the end of the tree strap to secure it around the tree. I can't think of how you could use a marlin spike to go around the tree.

  5. #15
    Senior Member otter's Avatar
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    I've used it to attach around the tree to.just make the knot and once around the tree feed the webbing back through the knot then your good to go

  6. #16
    Senior Member OldRagFreeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otter View Post
    ive used it to attach around the tree to.just make the knot and once around the tree feed the webbing back through the knot then your good to go
    Oh ok, that makes sense. Pretty cool. A sewn or knotted loop seems much simpler to me though... But as is said so much around here; 'hang your own hang.'

  7. #17
    Senior Member otter's Avatar
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    I gues knots just come along with my job so they are the best way for me.

  8. #18
    Senior Member OldRagFreeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otter View Post
    I gues knots just come along with my job so they are the best way for me.
    I know what you mean. There are a couple places I could do without tying knots (guy lines for one) and still choose to use them just because I like to tie a few knots while I'm out. It's all part of the fun.

  9. #19
    WV's Avatar
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    There was a spelunkers publication that described the best ways to sew strap loops. The strongest one was essentially parallel lines of straight stitching running lengthwise on the strap. I used to use Sergeant Rock's method, and it always worked for me, but then I got a thread injector that doesn't do zig-zag, so I switched from bar tacks to parallel lines.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    There was a spelunkers publication that described the best ways to sew strap loops....
    http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nhback/NH03.pdf...starts on page 11.

    And just the chart.

    I would have no problems with using a figure 8 knot to tie loops in 1500#+ webbing and hanging from it. However...FWIW...a bowline knot in 5/8", 1800 lbs Muletape derates it to 830 lbs according to this Neptco info.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 01-07-2013 at 11:09.

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