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  1. #1
    Senior Member namnat's Avatar
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    Practice go with thread injector

    Here's a practice bag I just made. Still a little scared of the thread injector.

    uploadfromtaptalk1358826858372.jpg

    Working my way to making my first DL diy hammock. Got some cheap ripstop at my local Hancocks Fabric store.
    "Science, my lad, is made up of mistakes, but they are mistakes which it is useful to make, because they lead little by little to the truth." - Jules Verne

  2. #2
    Senior Member WickedKlown2's Avatar
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    Set you thread length to 8 stitches per 1 inch and looks like you are pulling the bobbin thread up along the bottom of the bag so check your tension. I always use scraps of material I will be using to check my tension before running the main project. Other than that looks good.
    Last edited by WickedKlown2; 01-21-2013 at 22:15.
    Dave aka WK2
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  3. #3
    Big Bacon's Avatar
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    looks alot better than my hand stiching. good work

  4. #4
    Senior Member namnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedKlown2 View Post
    Set you thread length to 8 stitches per 1 inch and looks like you are pulling the bobbin thread up along the bottom of the bag so check your tension. I always use scraps of material I will be using to check my tension before running the main project. Other than that looks good.
    Yeah I think this **** machine is Crap. I mean its working and all but it binds up all the time and the only stitch I can do is a straight stitch. But I guess that's the only one I need.

    Also, I am having trouble understanding what the right tension to stitch ratio is. This is my first go around with this so any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Here's the injector I have
    uploadfromtaptalk1358836233851.jpg
    "Science, my lad, is made up of mistakes, but they are mistakes which it is useful to make, because they lead little by little to the truth." - Jules Verne

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by namnat View Post
    Yeah I think this **** machine is Crap. I mean its working and all but it binds up all the time and the only stitch I can do is a straight stitch. But I guess that's the only one I need.
    uploadfromtaptalk1358836233851.jpg
    A friends new machine would not sew worth anything. It turned out that the timing was out and runs good after it was adjusted.

  6. #6
    Brute1100's Avatar
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    Might try oiling it up if you haven't already... Some times a little lube will change a machines tune dramatically... Like you say all you need is a straight stitch so your good to go... Just play with it, no one gets it right and feels comfortable right off the bat... Like anything worth learning it takes time and patience...
    Live, Laugh, Love, if that doesn't work. Load, Aim and Fire, repeat as necessary...

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  7. #7
    deerfu's Avatar
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    Definitely a learning curve with the machines. What kind of deal did you get on the material? I just located a hancock near me

  8. #8
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Tension is a tricky thing. It depends on a lot of things.
    The _ideal_ tension is to have a smooth surface top and bottom of the stitch line. If you see nubbies at the punctures you are pulling the thread through from the other side. The solution for that is simple,a assuming the machine is working right, but it takes some tweaking. If the nubbies apear on the bottom of the stitch line (most common) tighten the top tension just a tad until the nubbies go away. If the nubbies appear on the top of the stitch line (less common) loosen the top tension untill the go away.

    Do _not_ adjust the bobbin tension unless you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it. For more information on bobbin tension read my post in my signature. In the vast majority of cases, the problem can be addressed with top tension adjustments.

    Tension and stitch length have little relation to each other. Tension and fabric content/thickness/weight are integrally related. The heavier/thicker/denser the fabric, the higher the tension will need to be.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

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  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Unless someone has messed with the bobbin tension already, there should be no reason to adjust that at all.

    There's no real reason to be afraid of the 'thread injector' - it's a whole lot safer to use than say a circular saw, heck I'd say it's safer than a scroll saw... Worst you can do is run the needle through your finger, not cut the whole thing off!!

    First thing to check is that the bobbin thread and the top thread are properly run through all the tension spots and the holders. One of the most often problems it misthreading.

    Also try putting in a new needle - just make sure you put it in correctly.

    For most projects a stitch length of 8 to 10 (per inch) is good, too long (8 or down) is called a basting stitch and is used when you want to be able to undo it easily. Above 12 and you're into so small a stitch that it tends to pucker like yours did.

    A simple way to check the tension adjustment is to use two colours of thread and sew a simple line on two pieces of plain material (white shows stuff up nicely). After sewing a straight line you can open up the two pieces of material and see if the two threads are meeting in between the two pieces of material. If not adjust 1 or less numbers on the top tension at a time and try again. The two different colour threads help show up which way to adjust quite nicely.

    And yes, as RamblinRev said, the thread length as naught to do with the tension.

    Once the tension is properly adjusted, it should very rarely need to be changed- I don't think I've moved mine in years!!

  10. #10
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    Tension is a tricky thing. It depends on a lot of things.


    Do _not_ adjust the bobbin tension unless you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it. For more information on bobbin tension read my post in my signature. In the vast majority of cases, the problem can be addressed with top tension adjustments.
    Here's another respected guide to learning and knowing what you are doing. There's more here than appears in the top-rated youtube video.

    http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/...nsion/page/all
    Last edited by DemostiX; 01-22-2013 at 15:56.

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