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  1. #101
    Senior Member lustreking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    You have one cord instead of 2 so its lighter than a whoopie and a UCR
    It seems like the more bulky toggle negates some or all of this, though.

  2. #102
    Jazilla's Avatar
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    The toggles being used now are just the start. If you look at the pictures the length on the toggles can be reduced and I sure will be. In theory a 1" wood dowel piece will work if the hole is drilled slightly off center as the wrap is right next to the center hole. actually toggle could be smaller than an inch. Potential
    Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
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  3. #103
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gresh View Post
    5' dog bones are made up, just gotta cobble up some toggles and it'll be go time.
    To minimize the weakening of the toggle that inevitably results from drilling a hole in it, drill the smallest hole possible. I tried to get away with a 9/64 hole for 7/64 Amsteel but needed to go up to 5/32. 5/32 works fine but there is no way you're going to get a loop or reversed bury through it. That has the benefit of keeping the toggle from slipping off for its own private traipse through the piney woods where it will most assuredly will be eaten by an armadillo never to be seen again. At least not in solid form. The down side is that you'll have to make your second loop (locked brummel) having access to only the free end of the line because after the first loop you have to thread the toggle on and you'll never get that armadillolunchwannabe toggle through the Amsteel to make the second loop.
    Here's how to do that. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...hlight=brummel


    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    I see the sliding aspect of the "hole in the toggle" or (h.i.t.t.) (hah I created a new acronym!!!!)


    The sliding aspect of the toggle gives microadjustability (up or down ) more easily than the whoopie, AND you can adjust it under load to a greater degree than the whoopie, but you still have to support much of the load while you're making the adjustment.
    As mentioned before, the smaller the HITT the stronger the toggle. (nice use of the new acronym Timberrr)

    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    Not to long ago, we did away with rings (compression on the line caused flat spots and potentially weak areas in the line). This technique relies on the same principal, although the toggle may create a softer pinchpoint, it is still there.
    I'm just thinking here (uh oh ) but after looking at the rig in action it seems that there is less bite on the line than the compression rings because the hold is from either A) two overlaps of the clove hitch or B) one overlap of a half hitch and the friction of the toggle. Ergo, this should be stronger and safer than holding by compression between two rings.

    Another thought. The line wrapped around the toggle is trying to compress the perimeter of the toggle. That is, it's trying to make a 1" diameter toggle into a 3/4" diameter toggle. Therefore, wouldn't a tube be more resistant, i.e. stronger, than a solid toggle? Not to mention lighter.
    Engineers, what say ye?
    Last edited by Timberrr; 02-01-2013 at 11:43.
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    So many trees, so little time...
    We follow where the Swamp Fox guides,
    His friends and merry men are we;
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    The turfy hammock is our bed,
    Our home is in the red deer's den,
    Our roof, the tree-top overhead,
    For we are wild and hunted men.

  4. #104
    New Member Wolle's Avatar
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    Setup MicroRope - adjustable aluminum slides

    looking from 03:00

  5. #105
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Are we running from the original because of a single failure? A failure that could easily have been caused by an existing flaw or damage? Not ready to give up on the dowel just yet...that elegant simplicity is just too seductive.
    Dave

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  6. #106
    MAD777's Avatar
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  7. #107
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    It's worth noting, too, that the use of Dynaglide for hammock suspensions has always been regarded as pushing the envelope. Flirting with the edge is not without risks.
    Dave

    http://www.uark.edu/misc/xtimber/rna/pattonsbluff.html

    It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.
    John Steinbeck

  8. #108
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    Lawn mower pull cord handle

    How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.

  9. #109
    Gresh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dchristensen View Post
    How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.
    We may have a winner here...bulky, yes. However, for testing purposes (and until Dutch cobbles up something), this might be the way to go!
    Vice-Chairman, Palmetto State Hangers

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolle View Post
    Setup MicroRope - adjustable aluminum slides

    looking from 03:00
    At 6:25 in this video, you can see another danger of this system. The toggle is turned almost parallel to the suspension rope and loop. If the end of the toddle turns to be over the loop "opening", the loop would likely pop right off...especially when only partially loaded while entering the hammock. The OP's larger diameter toggle would stand a better chance of not passing through the loop, but the possibility is still there.

    With webbing and a MSH, the toggle tends to stay aligned perpendicular to the suspension.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazilla View Post
    ...In theory a 1" wood dowel piece will work if the hole is drilled slightly off center as the wrap is right next to the center hole. actually toggle could be smaller than an inch. Potential
    As you make the toggle shorter, the chance of the loop coming off (or the toggle turning and passing through) increases.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timberrr View Post
    ...I'm just thinking here (uh oh ) but after looking at the rig in action it seems that there is less bite on the line than the compression rings because the hold is from either A) two overlaps of the clove hitch or B) one overlap of a half hitch and the friction of the toggle. Ergo, this should be stronger and safer than holding by compression between two rings.

    The overlap compression on the amsteel happens before the half hitch, putting the full compressive force in one spot. The half hitch adds a small amount of holding force after that happens.

    Another thought. The line wrapped around the toggle is trying to compress the perimeter of the toggle. That is, it's trying to make a 1" diameter toggle into a 3/4" diameter toggle. Therefore, wouldn't a tube be more resistant, i.e. stronger, than a solid toggle? Not to mention lighter.
    Engineers, what say ye?

    Not a chance. A round tube will resist crushing better than ...let's say, a star shaped tube, but definitely not more than a solid rod of the same diameter.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 02-01-2013 at 13:32.

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