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  1. #71
    ErickSaint's Avatar
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    The brushes weren't really as bad as I expected, I just cleaned them and put them back. The part in question is on either end of the shaft.

    They go in the 2 empty holes, there is a cap that covers the wick and spring, in this pic.

  2. #72
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    Those links above have new wicks as well.

  3. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by ErickSaint View Post
    So today I tackled the motor assembly and got that cleaned up. The set screw on the old rubber pulley was stuck good, bent a flat bit in one driver and broke my small craftsman flat blade, twice. That's why the pic shows the front end still attached. I tried a shot of oil to loosen it up a bit because I was lazy, no go. Ended up having to get the butane torch from the garage to get it off, cut off the dried out rubber, about 30 seconds of heat and it broke loose right away.

    Here is the biggest question about this assembly. I took the grease/oil wicks and springs out. They were in pretty bad shape, see the pic below. They need to be replaced. I'm guessing the springs are not very important here, can probably use pens springs. Can the wicks be any type of felt rope? I saw wicks at sew-classic but they are listed as 3/16" and for singer machines, my opening is at no more than 1/8" and I cant seem to find anything other than felt cord by the meter. Way more than I'll ever need, but oh well.

    More pics at http://blog.ericksaint.com/1948-kenmore-restoration/

    This is about the best I could get the commutator, that is one thing I will not be taking anything abrasive to.


    The stuck collar before heat.


    Grease/oil wicks.
    Actually, the part of the commutator where the brushes touch is usually a good place to sand the copper bars smooth. Don't over-do this, as the mica separators between the copper bars can't protrude, or they will keep the brushes from making contact. They make tools to undercut the mica insulators, but you really don't want to go into that unless it is unavoidable.
    I love the unimproved works of God. - Horace Kephart

  4. #74
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    I would start by trying to clean the wicks with something like lacquer thinner and see how they come out. Does the manual say to oil or grease the motor bearings. If that fails, PM me your mailing address and exactly what lengths you need. I have one (precious) 6" piece of 1/8" dia. wool felt.

    Get some Kroil for the next stuck screw. It is one of the best penetrating "oils" available. I bought a can 30 years ago and still have a lifetime supply.

    I agree on the commutator. Chuck the armature in a drill and spin it slowly as you clean the commutator with a pencil eraser or 400 grit metal working sandpaper with a flat backer.

  5. #75
    ErickSaint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    I would start by trying to clean the wicks with something like lacquer thinner and see how they come out. Does the manual say to oil or grease the motor bearings. If that fails, PM me your mailing address and exactly what lengths you need. I have one (precious) 6" piece of 1/8" dia. wool felt.

    Get some Kroil for the next stuck screw. It is one of the best penetrating "oils" available. I bought a can 30 years ago and still have a lifetime supply.

    I agree on the commutator. Chuck the armature in a drill and spin it slowly as you clean the commutator with a pencil eraser or 400 grit metal working sandpaper with a flat backer.
    I have some acetone out in the garage, I'll give that a shot tomorrow. They both feel pretty stiff. The wicks at sew classic just say "round felt" I found plenty of that online. I appreciate that offer, this is an excellent forum. I don't want to put you out when you have so little, but if there's a reason I shouldn't use the other stuff, they look to be about an inch each. I don't mind buying a ton of it when it's only like 6-7 bucks. Maybe they have it at a craft store cheaper.

    "Unscrew the caps and fill with special motor lubricant or petroleum jelly approximately every six months, depending on the amount of use of the machine."

    There was also a felt pad of sorts inside the hand wheel when I took it apart. Hard as a rock about 3/8" wide, 1/8" thick and 2" long. I pretty much did all the disassembly, bagging of parts, and took a bunch more pictures tonight. I'll have those pics loaded tomorrow.

    I'll clean up the comm more too. Just wasn't sure about sanding on it, I'll try the eraser first because I still need to go get some high grit sandpaper.

  6. #76
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    Since it calls for petroleum jelly, be sure to 'kneed" it into the cleaned/new wicks to get it started.

    The felt pad in the handwheel (any felt bits in a sewing machine) is meant to lube whatever part it is meant to touch.

    I only sand a commutator if it's unevenly worn...otherwise the eraser usually does the job.

  7. #77
    ErickSaint's Avatar
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    Here's today's update.

    Yesterday I did most of the major disassembly, and took pics. As usual more pics on the blog page. This installment of course all "before" pics.

    I started cleaning the head assembly today. Then I remembered that Grandma's house was a heavy smoking house, and so was mom and dads 20 years ago, but nowhere near as bad as the grandparents. I guess I'm glad it's that wrinkle brown finish, every time I wiped it I got more of that nasty tobacco film off of it. You can see it on the head pic. The tension lever cover was terrible, as were any of the chrome pieces. Anybody know a decent cleaner for that stuff? Full strength simple green was kind of working on the case, but not well. I used SG and wadded up aluminum foil for the chrome parts like the presser foot and tension levers and tension cover, worked very well.

    Back side is where it's the worst dirt and grime wise. Of course the side that was always up during storage in the table. But I'm guessing that the brownish/goldish colored rods on the bottom are tobacco stained as well. Same shades of brown as the tension and stitch length covers.

    I have tried cleaning the wicks and the felt from the handwheel. While they seem to be softening up a little, it doesn't seem like they are actually coming clean. I have been soaking them in acetone, then working them around and squeezing them between some paper towels. Been through a few cycles of this so far.

    Showing the dried up felt behind the hand wheel nut.















  8. #78
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    The brown stuff on the underside is probably varnished oil as much as anything. Except for metal to metal contact areas, it's just cosmetic. Alcohol on a strip of cloth wrapped over a rod and used shoe shine style will clean it off if you want.

    Evapo-Rust will make short work of the rust in the bobbin case.

    The felts don't have to look clean. They just need enough of the dried/varnished grease/oil removed to wick again.

  9. #79
    ErickSaint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The brown stuff on the underside is probably varnished oil as much as anything. Except for metal to metal contact areas, it's just cosmetic. Alcohol on a strip of cloth wrapped over a rod and used shoe shine style will clean it off if you want.

    Evapo-Rust will make short work of the rust in the bobbin case.

    The felts don't have to look clean. They just need enough of the dried/varnished grease/oil removed to wick again.
    I'm not to worried about the way the bottom looks. As long as it's not a bunch of dried crap on the moving parts. Going to give it the once over of course but no very concerned.

    Never heard of Evapo-Rust, do I live under a rock? That stuff looks awesome.

    I'm going to pull them out of the soak and squeeze them again before bed then let them dry out over night and see how they look when I get home from work. I've been working on them on and off since about 6-7.

  10. #80
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    Thanks again for all the help in this thread. Not sure I would have even tried to take on this task if I didn't have somebody that knows what they are doing to bounce idea off of.

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