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  1. #121
    Senior Member Roche's Avatar
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    Now available in XL!

    Here is a HH Deep Jungle Zip XL version. We used 7' length 2x4 for the bottom frames and 3/8" hardware. Enjoyed two consectutive overnight hangs. What a great tool to tweak your rig and try new things. Great design TrailH4X - many thanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #122

    HH Deep Jungle Zip XL version

    Roche,

    I saw that you had one of these. I was looking at them, but went with a WBBB 1.7dbl instead.

    How do you like it? Anything to compare it to? Have you tried the WBBBs?

  3. #123
    Senior Member Roche's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodwolfy View Post
    Roche,

    I saw that you had one of these. I was looking at them, but went with a WBBB 1.7dbl instead.

    How do you like it? Anything to compare it to? Have you tried the WBBBs?
    I like it the Deep Jungle very much but I can not give an opinion or comparison to a WBBB as I've never tried one out.

    This may be a little simple but how can you loose if you have to choose between a Lamborghini and a Ferrari? That's a nice problem to have.

    Enjoy the Blackbird!

  4. #124
    Senior Member ChrisH's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
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    I have tried both, I like the DJ XL better. I bought a WBB from somebody on the forum and only kept it a week before I sold it. It was a 1.1dbl, it was wider than the DJ but definitely shorter. I personally like more length than width in a hammock. The footbox didn't change anything or make my feet more comfortable, they were actually less comfortable because of the shorter length. The shelf is cool but not something I couldn't live without. The bedding material in the two hammocks are much different, the DJ has a thicker, softer material than the WBB. The WBB also fealt kinda flimsy compared to the DJ, most likely because of the thinner material. The DJ is not light by any means, though. If I wanted a lighter hammock I would go with an Explorer XL because it has pretty much the same lie as the DJ XL. As I always say, you can't go wrong either way but I prefer the DJ. HYOH, my .02.

  5. #125
    New Member
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    Apr 2011
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    Warbonnet Blackbird 1.0 DL
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    Here's my finished version with a GT Nano!


    Maybe I put it together incorrectly, but it seems like the rope running across the top is unnecessary- whenever I sit in the hammock, the rope ends up with slack, which seems to mean that the weight of me in the hammock is pulling the supports together, not apart.

    Or is there another reason for the top rope?
    Last edited by xeren; 07-09-2011 at 18:24.

  6. #126
    Member SinisterMinister's Avatar
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    I don't recall there being a top rope in the orginal designs. However, I do remember that the bolts on the stabbing guides were optional. So, the top rope could be used to keep the uprights in place while you set up your hammock...after that, they only real reason to keep it in place would be as a ridgeline for a tarp.

    The stand looks great, btw.
    Dutch: Hammock is probably more weight but who wants to lay on the ground? I pee on the ground.

  7. #127
    Bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeren View Post


    Here's my finished version with a GT Nano!


    Maybe I put it together incorrectly, but it seems like the rope running across the top is unnecessary- whenever I sit in the hammock, the rope ends up with slack, which seems to mean that the weight of me in the hammock is pulling the supports together, not apart.

    Or is there another reason for the top rope?
    Maybe for a tarp?
    If you get someone to lay in the hammock and then tighten the top rope, you won't have any movement of the uprights everytime you get in your hammock. Just a thought, I could be wrong.
    Don't let life get in the way of living.

  8. #128
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by SinisterMinister View Post
    I don't recall there being a top rope in the orginal designs. However, I do remember that the bolts on the stabbing guides were optional. So, the top rope could be used to keep the uprights in place while you set up your hammock...after that, they only real reason to keep it in place would be as a ridgeline for a tarp.

    The stand looks great, btw.
    Thanks!

    Yep, looks like it was either/or, so i pulled off the top rope- looks cleaner now too.

  9. #129
    TrailH4x's Avatar
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    Top rope only necessary if the pin bolts are not used. The design was put together so that the weight applied in the hammock would compress against the knee braces. I use DynaGlide continous ridgeline under my tarp as my clotheline and day pack hanger, so my ridgeline doubles in this capacity and I no longer worry with carrying and/or inserting knee brace pinning bolts. Glad you are enjoying yours!
    H4x
    SM TR49, SR-875 "A boy learns integrity through his eyes, ears and hands."

    "You step into the Road, and if you don't keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to." Bilbo Baggins, as quoted by Frodo The Fellowship of the Ring

  10. #130
    TrailH4x's Avatar
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    Tear Drop vs. Notch vs. Knee Brace Bolts/Pins

    [QUOTE=Chingyul;477081]I made the notches on the upright fairly deep. I'm no structural engineer (just a lowly mechanical one), but from the look, the brace is taking the load left by the missing notch. Any issues?
    QUOTE]

    Go back to this post: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...2&postcount=61

    My "notches" were designed to: (A) eliminate the frustration of installing and removing bent bolts/pins from the ever elongating knee brace bolt hole positions, (B) minimize reduction of upright cross sectional area allowing for maximum resistance to sheer forces and (C) maximize the cross sectional area of the knee brace mated to the upright to minimize point loading while ensuring maximum load distribution.

    The as-built design came about by: (1) leaving excess length on the knee braces, setting the 60 degree angle of the uprights, bolting the bottom of the knee braces in, lowering the angle of the knee brace and running it alongside of the upright until a crosscut line could be scribed on the knee brace along the line where its full width rode against the upright, (2) pencilling in the tear drop toward the distal end of the knee brace and then using a jig saw to make this cut, and finally (3) laying the knee brace along side the outrigger again and tracing the tear drop onto the upright and cutting it's knotch into position. It took a bit of dressing up with dremel and rasp, but I am very confident in the results. I enjoy the tinkering part of projects, as you might gather.

    I've toyed with the idea of creating templates. With even the smallest deviation in measuring and drilling any pivot joint positions, stock lumber sizing, length markings and cuttings, and a multitude of other slight variations it would be impractical to exprect the joints to mate correctly without dressing them up a bit anyway.

    HYOH, H4x.
    H4x
    SM TR49, SR-875 "A boy learns integrity through his eyes, ears and hands."

    "You step into the Road, and if you don't keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to." Bilbo Baggins, as quoted by Frodo The Fellowship of the Ring

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