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  1. #101
    New Member
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    Well,I got my warbonnet over the weekend and decided to make me a stand (there is a sever lack of trees in my yard ). Went well except I got bolts that were to short and had to not offset the uprights so it's not as portable as I would like, oh well maybe a change in the future.
    The only problem I really had is that my kelty 9' tarp is either too small on the square to cover the hammock or too long on the corners for the stand.

    Last edited by DJRansom; 10-11-2010 at 12:19. Reason: trying out the image

  2. #102
    Senior Member thekalimist's Avatar
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    finally made mine per sinmin's plans. It went without a hitch short of buying bolts too long and satisfactory lumber

    ...in it for pics.

  3. #103
    ^shane^'s Avatar
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    Removable feet

    I wanted to try one of these stands. I love woodwork, and the oaks in my backyard are about 19' apart which means the hammock straps have to be way up HIGH.

    It hit me at work today to try notching the feet into the base. With a tight notch, no real loss of strength should be seen in the base, and the feet are easily removable... no bolts.



    I made the notches 1.5" wide and 1.75" deep using my circular saw set to a cut depth of 1.75".



    In test fitting, the joints seem to be tight and strong. I'm going to take the base apart tomorrow to finish out the stand. I still have to set the arms and supports at the right angles, drill those holes, and finish up with the 1x4 sleeves and eye bolts. Hopefully we will be hanging on it tomorrow evening.
    "One of the best things you can do in this world is take a nap in the woods." ~ Jayber Crow by Wendell Berry

    "While it may be a lot of work, the view is best from the summit." ~ an anonymous staff member of Philmont Scout Ranch

    Enjoy the day
    Shane

  4. #104
    Member wetware1967's Avatar
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    Shane,
    Not a bad idea.......But.... your execution will allow the the frame to rotate left or right off of the legs, and fall over. You will need to either: 1. Notch the legs as well as the base of the frame, or 2. Bolt the thing together anyway.
    Sleep System: WBBB 1.7 DL
    Suspension: OEM Webbing
    Insulation:KAQ Lost River UQ & Thermarest-Ridgerest pad - GoLite UltraLite 3-Season Quilt
    Tarp: 8x10 polyethylene camoflage tarp

  5. #105
    ^shane^'s Avatar
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    I'm going to notch the legs as well. Probably not 1.75" deep. Thinking .75" to 1" to keep the base off the ground. I just hadn't gotten that far yet. The wife said it was time to come in and stop playing.

    To finish up today:
    Notch feet
    Set 60* angle and trim support to fit
    Attach 1x4 support "sleeves" and cut to fit
    Attach eye bolts
    Attach hammock
    Nap before baseball game...

    (Just had a DOH! moment... Anyone else trying this should reverse my notches. Make the shallower notch on the base and the deeper notch on the feet. I think that will work better. Dang... now I have to build another one.)
    "One of the best things you can do in this world is take a nap in the woods." ~ Jayber Crow by Wendell Berry

    "While it may be a lot of work, the view is best from the summit." ~ an anonymous staff member of Philmont Scout Ranch

    Enjoy the day
    Shane

  6. #106
    ^shane^'s Avatar
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    Completed stand with notched base and legs.

    Notch in base is 1.5" wide by 1.75" deep.
    Notch in legs is 1.5" wide by 1.25" deep.

    It took about an hour, but the notches did give way. This is a failed experiment.

    I'm going to keep the notched legs. I'll drill a 5/16" hole down through the base and leg in the middle of the crossing point of the base and leg. Use a 1/4" t-nut on the bottom and 1/4"x4" bolt from the top. Hopefully I can find wing bolts that long so this can still be a quick-disconnect base. If not, i'll buy an extra 5/16" wrench and attach some shock cord to the stand to hold the wrench.

    Last edited by ^shane^; 10-22-2010 at 20:17. Reason: new information...
    "One of the best things you can do in this world is take a nap in the woods." ~ Jayber Crow by Wendell Berry

    "While it may be a lot of work, the view is best from the summit." ~ an anonymous staff member of Philmont Scout Ranch

    Enjoy the day
    Shane

  7. #107
    Senior Member Swingblade's Avatar
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    I ended up using TrailH4x's design with a few alterations. I want to thank him for his thorough explanation, schematics & pictures, made it easy for even me to follow.

    I don't know how to post pictures on the net yet but it looks just like everyone elses. The only thing I did different was I kept the base 2X4's at 8' with the main verticals at 6" in & supports at 2'. This puts the attachment points at 6.5'HX14.5'L. I trimmed all the corners like TrailH4x did & it looks nice & the hang is quite good. I will probably drill 1 or 2 more support beam holes at 2.5' & 3' in so I can alter the attachment dimensions for different hangs. Total cost with all brand new materials from Home Depot was about $45. so about half to a third what a factory steel stand would cost. I don't know what the weight is but I had no problem moving it around some distance without wheels though I will probably build one more to TrailH4's dimensions for a truck portable unit.

    Anyone try 2X3 construction? Thought about it but being far from an engineer type was worried it might not support me at 240#. Would be interested in hearing from anyone that has built one with 2X3 though as that would save a good amount of weight.
    The older I get the better I used to be. Superhero status is near.

  8. #108
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    I've made 3 PHS's now. I use 2x3's for the bottom rails, diagonal braces and legs, but kept 2x4's for the vertical pieces. My biggest concern is the 2x3's splitting, so I made sure to drill the holes 3-1/2" from the end.

    The 2x3 legs allow the stand to rock a bit, so put blocks under the ends...

    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  9. #109
    Senior Member DiscoveryDiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swingblade View Post
    Anyone try 2X3 construction? Thought about it but being far from an engineer type was worried it might not support me at 240#. Would be interested in hearing from anyone that has built one with 2X3 though as that would save a good amount of weight.
    I worked on a 2X3 version today (including uprights) and have it about 80% finished. I weigh about 180 lbs so we'll see how it goes.

    I'm pretty pleased about the weight right now. I don't really need to add a wheel kit since it's so light and portable.

    Home center stuff here is a lot more $...I'm into this about $70 in materials (not including the other $60 in impulse stuff I bought at the home center ), and I went cheap with hardware. Going SS would have added another 20 to $30, so I figured to go cheap in that regard and see how the stand works out in general first.

    Right now, I'm thinking about a way to have the support struts work without any fasteners and without taking any wood out of the 2X3 upright...

    More later...

  10. #110
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Bump...................
    Dave

    http://www.uark.edu/misc/xtimber/rna/pattonsbluff.html

    It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.
    John Steinbeck

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