Tried that and it doesn't get close to tight enough. The loop would pretty much have to swallow itself and the double layer of the sewn tail is too stiff to do that.
Originally Posted by DeRozea
I should have been a little more clear I meant wrapping around the pipes and using the elbow and the diameter difference to keep the wrap on the top from slipping. I can do a mock up with PVC tomorrow if you want, but I just remembered something that I read on here a few weeks ago about someone keeping pieces of bike tire inner tube with them to get better grip on poles in an airport. That might work for you. You could even thread the webbing through a section or permanently attach some wraps of that on the stand.
Originally Posted by Mouseskowitz
I made a pipe stand using a "T" joint on top and it makes it much easier to attach suspension. I'll post photos but maybe in the more direct Pipe Stand tread.
As far as tires, traction and width, I think some factors are missing. It is true that tire experts recommend skinnier tires for snow driving because it puts more lbs/square inch on the ground. In fact, one time I bought these wider "racing" quality tries for my Datsun and I could get stuck in a parking lot with only ¼ inch of snow. They were rated for 40,000 miles and friends said I'd spend 10,000 of those mile spinning in parking lots.
So why to racers use wider tires. If you'll notice before the race, they spin those tires to get them hot and sticky. Also, they are probably more concerned about sideways drift than straight ahead go-ability (that comes from other factors). And finally, I'm guessing there is far more sophistication about applying just enough torque so maximum oomph is applied but not so much as to cause spin.