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  1. #131
    Senior Member Albert Skye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frawg View Post
    [...] the recommended bend radius for these ropes is something like 3 or 4 times the rope radius [...]
    That's the recommended *minimum* (3:1). Naturally, the more evenly distributed the force (the larger the radius), the stronger the structure. Incidentally, I requested a plot of D/d strength from Samson but they don't have it (nor do they have any knot testing results for their Dyneema products).

    Those are some beautiful buries you guys are making, but I'm hooked on hitches.

  2. #132
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Skye View Post
    That's the recommended *minimum* (3:1). Naturally, the more evenly distributed the force (the larger the radius), the stronger the structure....
    Thanks for clarifying... I probably shouldn't rely so much on context. Here's the post I was thinking of.

    (I like hitches, too! )
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  3. #133
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    loosening the Amsteel whoopie

    made a couple of whoopie slings from Amsteel blue (1/8"), have been in and out of hammocks supported by them all weekend.

    I'm seeing the same stiffness as others report on loosening up and adjusting the loop. Tightening the loop up isn't too bad, with one hand I can take the load off the bury (lifting the hammock end), with the other push the "envelope" part up, loosen, and use that hand pull the other end to shorten the loop. Making the loop larger is a bit more problematic, even awkward. Need to take the load off the bury with one hand, loosen the bury, then with the other hand simultaneously pull the loop through the bury to make it longer while pushing on the envelope to keep it from closing up.

    Since any alternative suspension is competing with the on-line marlin spike for my love and attention, the whoopie from Amsteel is out of the competition. I had some slippage with a Amsteel UCR, didn't care for that, and figured needing to use some sort of tie-off knot pushed it right back into the league with using hitches in my book Conclusion : Amsteel whoopies and UCR's ain't for me.

    I still have Vectrus though and it behaves differently on the UCRs I made and slept on earlier in the week. I'll make a whoopie sling from it and see.

    I'll climb on this bandwagon if I can find a solution that makes it easy to do small adjustments to suspension length that is reliable and notably easier than the marlin spike loop I use. That's a tall order...

    having fun fooling around with this though...

    Grizz

  4. #134
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Thanks for the report, Grizz! Good to hear of other experiences.

    FWIW it was the PITA of undoing a marlinspike hitch in AmSteel that had me looking elsewhere.But I wasn't using a real marlinspike, which most likely made the undoing harder than necessary.

    Side note on my securing hitch with the UCR -- only have to tie it once, when assembling the UCR the first time. The amortized effort seemed small enough.

    Happy hangin'!
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  5. #135
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    I've made Whoopie slings in a few different lengths now, and I've found the same thing that everyone else is reporting, in that Amsteel seems stiff going around the hugger-knot behind the marlinspike toggle. And Grizz's report that it's easier to shorten the loop than to enlarge it is correct.

    But, my experience with lengthening the loop doesn't quite rise to the level of awkward. If I grasp the top of the constrictor with one hand, and the loop in the other, it pulls readily. It may help that I 'start' pulling the top of the constrictor before pulling the loop, though. Maybe?

    Has anyone else experienced smurf-hands from working with the Amsteel Blue? Every time I've made one of the slings it leaves my hands tainted blue, although it does wash off easily. Per TeeDee's reports, I'd like to try a sling from AS-78 but haven't found it at a reasonable price, yet.

    Also, in regards to the first post in this thread and using a yarn-darning needle for the buries. That works fine, but it's a bit easier to use a longer needle for pulling through the buries. I found a blunt-nose weaving needle at Hobby Lobby that was incredibly cheap and works fantastically.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  6. #136
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    But, my experience with lengthening the loop doesn't quite rise to the level of awkward. If I grasp the top of the constrictor with one hand, and the loop in the other, it pulls readily. It may help that I 'start' pulling the top of the constrictor before pulling the loop, though. Maybe?
    I almost wrote the same thing... I take up tension by pulling on the line coming out of the bury toward the loop. It takes the tension off the constriction, which I can then slide easily with the other hand.

    Has anyone else experienced smurf-hands from working with the Amsteel Blue? Every time I've made one of the slings it leaves my hands tainted blue, although it does wash off easily.
    "smurf hands"... I love it!! Yes I do get blue hands. I like to think the Scots in my ancestry are pleased...

    - Grandpa Smurf
    Last edited by Frawg; 07-19-2009 at 16:18. Reason: Didn't watch enough Smurfs with my kids...
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  7. #137
    SlowBro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    .....I'm seeing the same stiffness as others report on loosening up and adjusting the loop. Tightening the loop up isn't too bad, with one hand I can take the load off the bury (lifting the hammock end), with the other push the "envelope" part up, loosen, and use that hand pull the other end to shorten the loop. Making the loop larger is a bit more problematic, even awkward. Need to take the load off the bury with one hand, loosen the bury, then with the other hand simultaneously pull the loop through the bury to make it longer while pushing on the envelope to keep it from closing up....


    ...having fun fooling around with this though...

    Grizz
    Grizz,

    I was having a hard time duplicating your experience, but it finally occurred to me that you probably had either a heavy hammock or some gear inside causing it to pull enough to keep the constrictor section of the whoopie very tight. ( I usually set up without anything in the hammock and with only the weight of the hammock I never had any problem with adjustments in either direction) So I loaded my hammock and got the same problem as you described.

    Standing beside the end of the hammock, facing the tree- I found a sorta work around with the loaded hammock, which was to tuck the end of the hammock under my armpit and lean toward the tree slightly. That unweights the sling and gives me just enough maneuver room with my armpit holding side hand to push or pull the bury and slide the free end with my other hand. I admit it is not elegant, but it seemed to work.
    Last edited by SlowBro; 07-19-2009 at 16:53.
    -SlowBro
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  8. #138
    SlowBro's Avatar
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    Smurf hands here, too.
    -SlowBro
    "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are."-Theodore Roosevelt

  9. #139
    LostCause's Avatar
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    The yarn needle works fine, but I still find it kind of awkward to make these that way. I saw an aluminium knitting needle at wally world and wondered it i cut it to length if it would work like a push fid. I'm not currently in a position to try but I might when i get home. Any thoughts?

  10. #140
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostCause View Post
    The yarn needle works fine, but I still find it kind of awkward to make these that way. I saw an aluminium knitting needle at wally world and wondered it i cut it to length if it would work like a push fid. I'm not currently in a position to try but I might when i get home. Any thoughts?
    I've had good luck with a Dritz #783 6 inch Ball Point Bodkin on 7/64 AmSteel. I find it harder to push through line that's been tensioned heavily. Works better on new line, IME. Ought to be easier on 1/8 or larger line.
    - Frawg

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