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  1. #91
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    Ahhh - I didn't read your full post before answering. I tried the double adjustable loop on each end the first time and abandoned that method for a regular Whoopie sliong as I described in my first response.

    The double adjustable loop didn't really accomplish anything for me. I could adjust both ends or just one end. Adjusting both ends didn't really change anything that adjusting one end didn't.

    So I dis-assembled the double adjustable loop method and now use the single adjustable loop regular Whoopie sling as much simpler to use.
    ah yes of course. I pictured you using a sling so large that you had x2 the cord needed, said to myself "self, you don't need that much cord", but in truth you zeroed in on the right thing to do. Short whoopie loop on long cord, one point of adjustment is all that is needed.

    Grizz

  2. #92
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by attroll View Post
    I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has made a full length version of this in Amsteel and used it on there hammock. I have found that when I have my Amsteel pull tight that it is slippery. I would be afraid that it would not tighten and hold.
    ATTROLL - I'm using AS-78. Same maker as the Amsteel and Amsteel Blue and uses the same Samthane coating. Just a slightly different dyneema, SK-78 instead of the SK-75 used in Amsteel.

    No problems. Works like a champ and the splicing is super easy and holds super tight.

    I'd say go for it.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  3. #93
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Trying to get my head around this. It's extremely interesting, btw. So you'd have a fixed end loop (splice) on one end attached to the hammock end, and an adjustable loop on the other end to get to the tree?

    What is the recommended length of the whoopie sling? Flexible enough to get out to straps (the toggle) at the trees, right? My straps right now are 10 feet long, so I'm supposing I'd need the sling to be around that length or shorter?

    I'm enjoying this discussion.


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
    - Mark Twain
    I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.
    - John Burroughs

  4. #94
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frawg View Post
    ..
    I hear ya! Some might accuse us of getting dangerously close to counting angels on the head of a pin...
    Correct. But it is fun sometimes.

    I normally design for a maximum 20' tree span. Over 20' I just find another pair of trees.

    With my ridge lines at 114" to 120" I have 4' 9" to 5' on each end to span, say 5'.

    Using your formula for the UCR needed length for my set-up, I get the following UCR raw materials:

    constrictor section still constant at 28.5"
    static section: 60 + 6 + 3 - 2 ==67"

    total is to 95.5" or 8'.

    For the Whoopie sling I use 11', so the difference is 3', That's a difference in weight of 0.25 oz per end for my AS-78 or 0.15 oz for your 7/64" amsteel.

    But for my Bridges the weight difference is overridden by the fact that I would still need 17' minimum tree span for my Bridges using the UCR.

    Still it's fun to understand the differences so that I can make a more informed decision between the two.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  5. #95
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    Correct. But it is fun sometimes.


    ...it's fun to understand the differences so that I can make a more informed decision between the two.
    I agree wholeheartedly. I think understanding why we choose what we do is arguably as important as the actual choice, because any correlated implications become more evident.

    Good stuff, TeeDee!
    - Frawg

    {generic tagline}

  6. #96
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    Trying to get my head around this. It's extremely interesting, btw. So you'd have a fixed end loop (splice) on one end attached to the hammock end, and an adjustable loop on the other end to get to the tree?
    Correct.

    What is the recommended length of the whoopie sling? Flexible enough to get out to straps (the toggle) at the trees, right? My straps right now are 10 feet long, so I'm supposing I'd need the sling to be around that length or shorter?

    I'm enjoying this discussion.
    Cool!

    Roughly, you'd need a raw length about double the longest distance you expect between the hammock and the tree strap, plus whatever extra line you need to double back for the end splice at the hammock, plus a few more inches because the line will shorten a bit when you make the constriction bury.

    TeeDee has looked at this in great detail and can give you precise numbers if you need them.

    I think you'll like it!
    - Frawg

    {generic tagline}

  7. #97
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPatrick View Post
    ...
    What is the recommended length of the whoopie sling? Flexible enough to get out to straps (the toggle) at the trees, right? My straps right now are 10 feet long, so I'm supposing I'd need the sling to be around that length or shorter?

    I'm enjoying this discussion.
    Are you going to be using a ridge line??

    If so, do you envision connecting the ridge line to the suspension or the hammock?

    If I assume that you are foregoing the ridge line and connecting the suspension to the hammock then you have the following setup:

    1. fixed eye on one end big enough to attach to hammock. This going to be true whether you use the Whoopie Sling or the UCR method.
    2. an adjustable loop that goes from the end of the fixed eye to the tree hugger


    Assuming you use a larks head to attach to the hammock, then the fixed eye has to be big enough for that, but not bigger.

    If using 1/8" diameter rope, then you need the following amount of rope for the fixed eye:

    1. 8.25" on the end for the bury
    2. followed by enough for the eye itself
    3. followed by 9.6" in which you bury the end


    After the bury for the fixed eye, you need enough rope to go from the end of the fixed eye bury to the tree and back plus about 1' of rope.

    The bury for the adjustable loop is started 9.6" from the end of the bury for the fixed eye and ends at the end of the bury for the fixed eye.

    Then terminate the rope by burying the end of the rope. The amount buried for the termination can be as little as 1.25" to about 4".

    So if the length of the fixed eye is E and the max distance from the hammock to the tree is L, you will need this much rope to start:

    2.3 (L - 8") + E + 15.5"

    The 2.3 factor assumes a 30" sag angle. The above also assumes 12" after the bury for the adjustable loop to terminate the rope and have enough to grasp when the loop is extended to max length.

    When you say that your straps are 10' long, does that mean that you hang 10' from the tree?

    Or that the 10' includes enough to go around the tree also?
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  8. #98
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    I made a UCR using 1/8" diameter rope.

    For my Bridge setups, I needed the following rope:

    Constrictor section:
    1. fixed eye: 18.85" == 8.25" + 9.60" + 1" for eye
    2. constrictor bury: 18" to get 15" finished length
    3. termination end bury and for rolling hitch: 12"


    Total: 48.85"

    Static section:
    1. fixed eye, 2" loop to fit over marlin spike: 8.25" + 4" + 9.6"
    2. 36" to fit span to entry end of constrictor
    3. 15" for constrictor
    4. termination bury: 12"


    total: 84.85"

    Total of both sections: 133.7" == 11' 1.7"

    Now the 12" I allowed for the rolling hitch may be reduced somewhat, but I needed most of that since I couldn't tie the rolling hitch using the termination bury.

    I used 18" to get 15" of bury for the constrictor. Don't know if that is typical or not or if less than 15" is strictly needed, but probably not much less.

    I used a spliced fixed eye for the toggle rather than your slipped eye. The slipped eye would save about 4" I guess, but not sure I'm comfortable with it yet.

    So I need 11' give or take 2" or 3" for the UCR method given my method for connecting the suspension, ridge line and hammock at the toggle.

    For the Whoopie Sling, I start with 11' of rope and could cut off perhaps 6" to 9", but maybe not.

    So the UCR method doesn't use any less rope for me. Now I'm satisfied with my choice to use with my Bridges and the MSLS. I can now stop annoying people with this.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  9. #99
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    ... Now I'm satisfied with my choice to use with my Bridges and the MSLS. I can now stop annoying people with this.


    HYOH, Bro!
    - Frawg

    {generic tagline}

  10. #100
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    I think I got it

    Since it has been explained many times over in this thread how to do it I think I finally got it. However, if ever there were a next part in a Hammock Knot series (Grizz...) this would be a great candidate. I am sure there are a few here that might like to see it in action. This system has innovation written all over it!

    Stormcrow

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