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  1. #151
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Okay - that's the procedure I used to use. Cannot remember how long ago now - seems to me to be a very long time I guess. But it's been since I developed the SLS and refined it.

    See my post to AS for my procedure now. I guess my Physics and Mathematics background makes me automatically start measuring things and examining the geometry which naturally led to my SLS procedure.

    My personal preference is to use a ridge line. For me it makes everything much easier since I can hang the suspension (with ridge line) with no weight except the approximately 3 oz of the suspension. Once I have that, I can stand in the middle and know if the ridge line is too high or low or just right. If not just right I can move huggers accordingly and with no weight on them, which makes that job very easy. That's all the adjustment I really need since in setting up the suspension, I automatically have the correct sag - that's guaranteed even before tha hammock is attached. Hanging the hammock on the suspension toggles is even easier, no adjusting, just hang the loops on the suspension toggles and insert the spreader bars.

    Yeah - I've been using a ridge line for tarps for years now. NOTE: the JRB 11x10 tarp has a tab on the ridge in the center. Attach that tab to the ridge line and it will keep the center of your tarp high. I just use a micro carabiner and snap it in place. I run my tarp ridge line above the tarp though, instead of under it.

    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    TeeDee-
    I'm not using a ridgeline for the hammock. I have a ridgeline under my tarp which serves all the auxiliary purposes a hammock ridgeline serves, but not the main one of setting the length of the suspension. I use the ridgeline under the tarp to take the stress off the sewn in center tabs. At least on my JRB tarp I saw these start to pull away under strain; so now the tarp hangs over a ridgeline and is positioned on it and held in place by prussiks attached to it, and those tabs. Makes it very easy to center the tarp over the hammock, once hung, which is particularly important with my bridge hammock under a MacCat Deluxe, because it Just Fits if I'm careful.

    So, no ridgeline for the hammock. Means that when I hang it I do little adjustments here and there to the suspension lines and the position of the tree huggers to get the hammock hung where I want it, at the height I want it, with enough tension on the suspension to give me a flat lay. That's where I use small adjustments. And, when in the hammock I feel that it isn't level, out I go to adjust a little more.

    On the marlin spike...my "default" suspension these days does the following.
    1. Put marlin spike hitched toggles on the tree webbings.
    2. Take cord from hammock, loop over the toggles at the tree, bring the standing end back, and form another marlin spike hitch on the line. The toggle on that one simply serves to fasten the bottom of the loop just made over the toggle at the tree. This second hitch is easy and fast to form, easy and fast to undo, easy and fast to redo after changing the length of the cord from hammock to toggle-at-tree. I demo'ed this in one of my suspension tutorial videos starting at around 7:50.

    Finally, I've made up both UCRs and whoopie slings. The observation about relative difficulty in increasing the loop size applies of course only to the whoopie sling.

    Grizz
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  2. #152
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Out of curiosity, what type (material and source) and length of tree huggers are being used by everyone with the constrictor suspensions?

    From other threads, I noted the following -

    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    ...TeeDee has our whoopie sling system down to 4.60 oz now and could easily shave that down to 4.5 or 4.4 oz when he's confident enough to start cutting excess rope. If we use rope instead of webbing for the tree huggers, then we can get that down to about 4 oz. Could get under 4 oz if we didn't like really long huggers.
    That's very very light. Type and length?

    Also interesting was mention of a huggerless arrangement -

    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    ...if you want you can ditch the webbing altogether and use rope huggers and the method that Turk explained somewhere and you have lightened your load and have the nicest suspension system that I have used. Using the rope huggers and Turk's method takes more time for setup, but saves a lot of weight over the webbing huggers. If Turk is browsing, maybe he can be induced to expand on his method. Using the rope huggers I can drop the hugger weight from 2 oz to approximately 0.5 oz.
    I went and found the original post that was referenced -

    Quote Originally Posted by turk View Post
    I should clarify. I am not opting out of treehuggers, and just ignoring tree damage, rather i have found ways to protect trees that involve no weight penalty. 10 finger sized 1/2" diameter sticks picked up off the ground stood vertically between my amsteel and the tree. this spreads the load perfectly.

    I have yet to snap a twig, or mark a tree using this method. it adds a couple of minutes to my setup time, but saves a few ounces in my system weight.
    Very interesting application, for the lightest possible suspension. I think that this is a good solution if something happened to a tree hugger (lost or damaged), but I don't think I will rely on it as a primary means, for myself.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  3. #153
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    Out of curiosity, what type (material and source) and length of tree huggers are being used by everyone with the constrictor suspensions? ...
    I'm currently using the cheap Harbor Freight 1" webbing. I cut and sew the ends to make 3 slings, 2', 3' and 5' long. I mix & match as needed. It remains to be seen how effective that will prove over time.
    - Frawg

    {generic tagline}

  4. #154
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    AngySparrow - I'm using 42" Harbor Freight webbing from their cinch straps, 1" wide. I cut and sew doubled over 6" loops on one end.

    2 tree huggers: 2.15 oz
    MSLS: 2.60 oz (currently using 12' of AS-78 in each Whoopie Sling because that is what I started with and have not cut down yet. I could comfortably cut down to 8', cutting the weight to 1.95 oz)

    Total: 4.75 oz or 4.10 oz after cutting Whoopie Sling ropes down to 8' each.

    I have huggers from Strapworks 1" and 1.5" seatbelt webbing and like both, but the Harbor Freight webbing is still the lightest I have found.

    I have made a version of my original SLS replacing the bowline knots with the adjustable loop as used in the Whoopie Sling. Unfortunately the weight comes to 2.70 oz because the ridge line is AS-78, whereas on my MSLS, I can use 1.75 mm Lash-It for the ridge line.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  5. #155
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    AngrySparrow - I like Turk's rope hugger idea.

    Like you say I'm still not sure about using it exclusively yet, but am still open to it.

    My AS-78 huggers are only 0.65 oz as compared to 2.15 for my equivalent length Harbor Freight webbing huggers. I imagine for a dedicated SUL person, it is a good swap - weight for time.

    I could even increase my AS-78 huggers to 10' each to handle about any tree encountered and still only have 1.6 oz in the pair.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  6. #156
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    I like his idea, too. In fact, I've just been outside hanging via that method and seeing for myself. It does seem to work nicely with no marks on any of the trees I used. Finding suitable sticks was no challenge either, but getting them into place does add a few minutes to setup. I'll have to ponder whether the convenience is worth the weight to me.

    Regarding the weight of webbing for huggers - Since I've been tinkering with the Whoopie Sling, I've been using 2x 6ft StrapWorks 1" Polyester Seatbelt webbing huggers (4.6oz total). While that's not astonishingly heavy, it's more burdensome than the figures that are quoted above. The difference is mostly due to extra length, though.

    More than once I've suspended my hammock from trees where 42" huggers would not be sufficient, and at least one of those times finding an alternate pair of trees would have required moving my intended site more than I would have liked. But, that convenience does come at a bulk/weight penalty.

    That's just more for me to ponder as I make choices about what I want to use. Thanks for indulging my curiosity about the webbing.
    I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt. - Cormac McCarthy

  7. #157
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    whoopie sling in Vectrus....deal me in

    My current DIY go-to bridge hammock has a Vectrus based suspension. On each end is an integrated piece that has the sides of the suspension triangle (tied together in a Zepplin hitch), a cord ring that can be used to connect a ridge-line if I want, and a longish (10' or 12') strand that continues on to be attached to the tree somehow.

    All I have to do to include a whoopie sling is to take the standing end and do a bury that emerges near the top of the suspension triangle.

    I noted before that Vectrus was really nice on an UCR for loosening the grip when desired. Not surprising the same is true with the whoopie sling. That material is made for this constricting/unconstricting business.

    Now that AS has pointed out how to lengthen the loop easily, the sling in Vectrus is very easy to use. Since I've done the buries I "lose" 5 or 6 feet of flexibility in cord length, but with minimal weight cost I can include a couple extra pieces of Vectrus for extensions at the tree if needed, or I can just undo the bury and use the cord the way I've always done.

    I'm liking this.

    bridge-whoopie.jpg

    Grizz
    Last edited by GrizzlyAdams; 07-20-2009 at 20:25.

  8. #158
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    I have been using a similar setup with 7/64 amsteel on my bridge for a few hangs and really like it. I found that most of the time I am able to set up quicker since the loops are usually close to the length needed from hang to hang.

    It is almost too simple

    I think I am going to change my daughter's bridge from webbing/rings to the whoopie sling, not because of the weight just because I think it is quicker and easier for setup.

  9. #159
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Ucr with Sls

    Forgive me for elaborating the obvious, but I had to try using UCRs with an SLS:



    Needless to say, setting the sag is insanely easy.
    - Frawg

    {generic tagline}

  10. #160
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frawg View Post
    Forgive me for elaborating the obvious, but I had to try using UCRs with an SLS:



    Needless to say, setting the sag is insanely easy.
    ...Yep.... Maybe even easier
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

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