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  1. #511

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    Home Depot, here I come!

    Since the tree hugger would eat into the minimum distance spanned, I imagine with a setup like that you would only need a 3 - 4' tree hugger on the end of your whoopie.
    - William -

    How can a young man keep his way pure? By living according to your word. - Psalms 119:9

  2. #512
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Depends on the average diameter of the trees in your area. You can always go longer and adjust your strap length by an extra wrap or 2 around the tree.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  3. #513
    Senior Member GvilleDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Heres what it would look like..



    I dont know if the nylon thimble after being cut to get through the webbing loop will hold up. Ill get some weight on it later to see how it does.
    You could install the thimble and the loop from the woopie sling before you sew the loop closed in the webbing then you would not have to slit the thimble.

  4. #514
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GvilleDave View Post
    You could install the thimble and the loop from the woopie sling before you sew the loop closed in the webbing then you would not have to slit the thimble.
    Yes... thats possible. But only if you dont already have your straps with the loop sewn.

    The nylon thimble wont hold up anyway.
    I am not a gram weenie. , But Im starting to see the merits!!!

    Kris' Splicing

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  5. #515
    Senior Member RePete's Avatar
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    Its a neat idea but are you really saving time over the marlin spike hitch. A few seconds maybe but the trade off is you now have attached straps to deal with if things get tangled. I think you loose a bit of versatility as well. Someone make a vid and show me the light. I admit I may be missing something here. The idea is intriguing. Maybe descender rings with a biner for an attachment point for the thimble and it would be adjustable. If that would work you would not have to modify your straps at all. You could keep them as long as you like. Just not sure if it would work and I do not have the materials to test such a thing.
    Pete.
    The opinions expressed by this user are not those of a competent individual. If they were that would mean I know what I am talking about.

  6. #516
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schneiderlein View Post
    Another thing that works well is a velcro cable tie. It weighs under one gram, but you can cut half of it off. This is also a dual-use item. You attach the tie to one strand of the whoopie, but wrap it around both. It has enough friction so that it stays in place if you push it up towards the toggle. This way, the loop cannot open up and slide off the toggle quite as easily during setup.
    yes this gets at one of the issues I've had with the WS, that if the line isn't at all loaded the WS hops off the Marlin Spike too easily.

    What I've done is similar, it has three parts
    1. put a bead (or in my case, a small plastic ring) on the cord to prevent the loop through pulling through. Just as others have suggested.

    2. When the WS is fully extended (i.e. the loop is as large as possible), put the bead or ring at the center. All the way down away from the bury as far as it will go.

    3. Below the bead put the two strands of the WS together and tie a whipping knot, tight enough to stay put but loose enough to move easily.

    So now when I put the WS over the toggle I bring the knot up closer so that the WS doesn't jump ship. It can complicate adjusting, a little, if the knot is too tight. But mostly if I just tug on the two strands then any bunching disappears.

    I know someone will want pictures. Sorry. The last pair of WS I made with this method is on a hammock sent to someone else.
    Grizz
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  7. #517
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams View Post
    yes this gets at one of the issues I've had with the WS, that if the line isn't at all loaded the WS hops off the Marlin Spike too easily.

    What I've done is similar, it has three parts
    1. put a bead (or in my case, a small plastic ring) on the cord to prevent the loop through pulling through. Just as others have suggested.

    2. When the WS is fully extended (i.e. the loop is as large as possible), put the bead or ring at the center. All the way down away from the bury as far as it will go.

    3. Below the bead put the two strands of the WS together and tie a whipping knot, tight enough to stay put but loose enough to move easily.

    So now when I put the WS over the toggle I bring the knot up closer so that the WS doesn't jump ship. It can complicate adjusting, a little, if the knot is too tight. But mostly if I just tug on the two strands then any bunching disappears.

    I know someone will want pictures. Sorry. The last pair of WS I made with this method is on a hammock sent to someone else.
    Grizz - I've ended up doing something similar.

    I have a toggle on my suspension that I loop the Whoopie slings of the suspension triangle over. Same at the other end of the Bridge. With the suspension triangle Whoopie slings pulling in opposite directions, the slings tend to puill off the toggle unless I make the toggle ridiculously long. To keep the toggle at 1" long, I run the slings through a steel ring, " diameter, and then loop over the toggle. The ring keeps the slings on the toggle. Guy line doesn't work here. The steel ring weighs 0.05 oz.

    For the Whoopie sling on the end of the suspension, the problem isn't the sling coming off the toggle under tension, but rather when there is no tension and I'm busy around the hammock and jostling it. Only had the sling come off once or twice, but I like your idea and tried it. Made a Solomon Bar knot using 1.75 mm Lash-It about 1" long on the Whoopie Sling loop. Tied it a little looser than I usually do so it slides easily. Put sling over toggle and adjust, then slide Solomon Bar up close to toggle. As you say, I have to pull on the sling to get both strands evened out, but works great.

    Thanks.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

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  8. #518
    Senior Member GvilleDave's Avatar
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    Well my Amsteel Blue arrived today. I ordered 100' of 7/64". Mine is a darker blue than SlowBro's pictures so for me the hardest part was finding a marker that would show up on the dark blue line... Also, my line appears to have 8 strands; I've read about Amsteel having 12 strands. Did I get fake Amsteel?

    I used a folded over piece of baling wire that I fed through the length of the bury and then threaded the tapered line into the loop at the end of the wire to pull it back through the bury. It was too easy. For my fixed loop end I tied it off with a tucked double overhand loop which I believe is stronger than a bowline. Here's a diagram of the knot: http://www.realknots.com/knots/sloops.htm
    Last edited by GvilleDave; 03-16-2010 at 22:26.

  9. #519
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GvilleDave View Post
    Well my Amsteel Blue arrived today. I ordered 100' of 7/64". Mine is a darker blue than SlowBro's pictures so for me the hardest part was finding a marker that would show up on the dark blue line... Also, my line appears to have 8 strands; I've read about Amsteel having 12 strands. Did I get fake Amsteel?
    7/64" Amsteel has 8 strands. 1/8" has 12.

    Instead of marking my cord, I shove sewing needles in to mark the lengths. Anything that penetrates the cord easy and pulls out again will do.
    Grizz
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  10. #520
    Senior Member Albert Skye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GvilleDave View Post
    For my fixed loop end I tied it off with a tucked double overhand loop which I believe is stronger than a bowline.
    Keep an eye on that (maybe mark it with a pen) because Dyneema/Spectra is slippery enough to pull its tail right through some knots.

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