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  1. #51
    Dutch's Avatar
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    I made one a sling from air core last night. I had only 9 feet so i only have one. It works very well and is kind of addictive playing with it. It was much harder to find a single strand and get between the strands then what the video showed. His larger rope makes it look easy. Thanks for showing me this, it was a great first post. I'm going to have piles of hardware once I change out all my hammocks. Tri Glides, rings, buckles, tri rings are so last week.
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  2. #52
    Senior Member amac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiredFeet View Post
    1/8" diameter stainless steel tubing. 1" weighs between 0.1 and 0.15 oz
    TiredFeet,
    Is that something I can get at a Home Depot/Lowes?
    "Every minute outside ... is a good minute!" -> Calvin & Hobbes, 8/1/1993

  3. #53
    Ken's Avatar
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    Hennessy conversion

    Does anyone think that the melted through holes in a Hennessy will abrade amsteel prematurely? They are kind of rough. This hammock has been converted to cinch buckles/webbing, so I was thinking of removing that and taking the amsteel all the way in.

    I have also thought of just removing the webbing and larksheading the fixed eye of the whoopie behind the buckles, making the system convertible. Thoughts?

    Ken
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  4. #54
    Senior Member headchange4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    Does anyone think that the melted through holes in a Hennessy will abrade amsteel prematurely? They are kind of rough. T

    Ken
    It should be fine but I would retie the Amsteel with the same method the HH uses for the stock line.
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  5. #55
    Ken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by headchange4u View Post
    It should be fine but I would retie the Amsteel with the same method the HH uses for the stock line.
    Yes, that's what I meant. That's what I have with the cinch buckles now.

    Thanks,
    Ken
    http://www.linvillegorge.net

    "You can't hem up a Rat!" Malcom Johnson, ca. 1970

  6. #56
    SlowBro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I made one a sling from air core last night. I had only 9 feet so i only have one. It works very well and is kind of addictive playing with it. It was much harder to find a single strand and get between the strands then what the video showed. His larger rope makes it look easy. Thanks for showing me this, it was a great first post. I'm going to have piles of hardware once I change out all my hammocks. Tri Glides, rings, buckles, tri rings are so last week.
    To get at a single strand better and to get between the strands I found that by holding the line on either side of the mark and pushing your fingers toward each other, like a Chinese finger trap, the weave will open up. Just a thought.

    -SlowBro

  7. #57
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amac View Post
    TiredFeet,
    Is that something I can get at a Home Depot/Lowes?
    We bought at McMaster-Carr here

    Don't remember the exact wall thickness we used. We have both seamless and welded and drawn. Both work fine. We kind of like welded and drawn better and I think it may be slightly cheaper.

    Don't know whether you can find it a Home Depot or Lowes. Maybe an auto store that sells brake lines. We used the same wall thickness if I remember correctly. We looked at brake lines but they are usually pre-bent for specific vehicles and get pretty expensive.

  8. #58
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Jeff View Post
    Has anyone tried this with Sypderline? I have more Spyderline left than I do Air Core. Not sure I'm sold on the utility of an entire Whoopie Sling but this thread has motivated me to do some eye splices. Who knows...I might try a Whoopie Sling just to see how I like it. Would at least work for an adjustable ridgeline.
    JJ - splicing double braid rope like the Spyderline can be a real challenge. Most of the descriptions I have read involve opening the outer braid and pulling the inner braid out through the opening and then some rather complicated splicing with the inner braid and covering with the outer braid again. Don't quote me too much on the above, I stopped reading after the 2cd or 3rd step and then just glanced at the pictures. I think you have to pull the inner braid out because it would be very difficult or impossible to get a fid or needle or anything down the middle and then pull anything back through. The outer braids are usually very tight and don't allow much expansion for splicing. Also, once done you have to "balance" the 2 braids to make sure that both are carrying the load equally otherwise you end up with something significantly weaker than the original rope.

    Single braid is just so much easier since you don't have to deal with the outer braid covering.
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  9. #59
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Frawg - I was just looking at your pictures in this post and got to wondering about the length of 7/64" amsteel you use for each end Whoopie Sling?

    How long is the ridge line in your picture?

    In particular I am wondering about a comparison of the rope lengths needed for the UCR and Whoopie Sling methods. I tried such a comparison earlier and didn't see much difference in needed length in the way I was doing the two.

    For comparison purposes please state the max tree span you plan on and the max ridge line length.

    Here are my lengths for my current incarnation of the Whoopie Sling - I pulled all of mine apart and started from scratch again since I had mis-interpreted the directions and used FAR too much bury originally - nice thing about the splicing I could pull it all apart and the rope looked to be in pristine condition.

    max Ridge Line length: 120" (adjustable from 114" to 120")
    max tree span: 20'
    rope length before splicing: 10' 1" min needed. I usually use 11' though.
    Weight from tree to tree: 3.55 oz (includes 2 1" steel toggles connecting the end slings to the ridge line sling and from which the hammock is hung)
    Rope: 3 mm AS-78 from Samson Ropes

    I currently use 3 Whoopie slings tree to tree: Whoopie Sling on each end and a Whoopie Sling ridge line.

    I am currently experimenting with using a Whoopie sling for each of the triangular suspensions on my Bridges. That would make the triangular suspension part easily replaceable and makes the side length of the triangular suspension easily adjustable.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

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  10. #60
    Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeeDee View Post
    Frawg - I was just looking at your pictures in this post and got to wondering about the length of 7/64" amsteel you use for each end Whoopie Sling?
    Hey, TeeDee!

    I haven't done any rigorous engineering yet, just some seat of the pants 'spike' efforts to make sure the critical elements function correctly. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can right now. I'll follow up later with the details you're looking for.

    What's in the picture are actually UCRs and are 12' long from fixed eye to toggle, fully extended. Obviously they aren't fully extended in the picture, but I'll have to measure them for you later.

    How long is the ridge line in your picture?
    Again, I'll have to go measure it, but I'm anticipating something between 100" and 112". The hammock bed is about 96", end channel to end channel, but I've been playing with the length of cord through the channels so things can vary from hang to hang. What I can say is that I shoot for an 'a' value of about 47 which corresponds to the catenary I've seen mentioned here for the HH and the WBBB.

    In particular I am wondering about a comparison of the rope lengths needed for the UCR and Whoopie Sling methods. I tried such a comparison earlier and didn't see much difference in needed length in the way I was doing the two.
    Again, I've been working seat of the pants but off the top of my head, each would have a (different) fixed overhead length as well as a variable length portion.

    I'd imagine the fixed overhead to be less for a whoopie sling, since it can use a shorter bury than the UCR can, with a difference I'd posit as something around a foot or less. Call those Lw,min and Lu,min respectively.

    If we call the amount of variable line L, then the UCR can span a range from Lu,min to Lu,min+L.

    The range that the whoopie sling can span depends on the displacement between its bury and its fixed eye. If that distance is 'B', then the amount of line left for free play is L-B and the whoopie sling will span the distance from Lw,min+B to Lw,min+B+(L-B)/2.

    I think I got that right. IAE, for a given amount of line the UCR can cover a wider span than the whoopie sling, while a whoopie sling can handle a shorter minimum span.

    For comparison purposes please state the max tree span you plan on and the max ridge line length.
    Sure... I've only done a rough estimate so far, but based on the 'a' value I want, how high I can probably reach on a tree and how low I'm willing to hang, I figured on a max spacing of about 26', give or take a micron.

    ...nice thing about the splicing I could pull it all apart and the rope looked to be in pristine condition.
    Ain't that the truth!

    I currently use 3 Whoopie slings tree to tree: Whoopie Sling on each end and a Whoopie Sling ridge line.
    I do use a whoopie sling for my ridge line.

    I am currently experimenting with using a Whoopie sling for each of the triangular suspensions on my Bridges. That would make the triangular suspension part easily replaceable and makes the side length of the triangular suspension easily adjustable.
    Sweet!

    I'll make some real measurements later and get back to you. We've had some nice rain today, so I've been experimenting with tarp pitches.

    Chuck
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