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  1. #941

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Maryland
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    BMBH/HH Exp/ ENO DN
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    JRB 11' x 10'
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    JRB Hudson River
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    Whoopie/Cont Loop
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    From what I've read, ~ 1000lbs breaking strength for your suspension is kind of your target. The Amsteel 7/64 is 1600 and the 1/8 is 2300 (if I remember correctly, but that can be verified on the Samson website). I think Zing it is ~ 600 (good enough for structural ridge lines)

    If I'm off, someone please correct me.

  2. #942
    Senior Member
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    7/64" Amsteel Blue is generally considered the standard for average weight hangers. Some hangers that are willing to except a lower margin of safety use Dynaglide and some use 1/8" Amsteel Blue for a higher margin of safety.

    Dynaglide - min breaking strength = 850 lbs / avg breaking strength = 1000 lbs

    7/64" Amsteel Blue - min breaking strength = 1400 lbs / avg breaking strength = 1600 lbs

    1/8" Amsteel Blue - min breaking strength = 2300 lbs / avg breaking strength =2500 lbs

    With perfect splicing, new rope and proper usage including paying attention to minimum bend

    diameter, figure ~20% loss of strength for the amsteel whoopie and at least that for the

    dynaglide.

    These are breaking strengths, not safe working loads, so use you own judgement.

  3. #943
    New Member
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    Feb 2014
    Location
    Central Illinois
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    My Own Make
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    Whoopie Sling
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    I have made three gathered end hammocks, so far. One was made with a piece of 63" wide ripstop and two others with 126" X 60" polyester tablecloths. I use a whoopie sling suspension made of 1/8" or 5/32" twelve strand Dyneema. It's not Amsteel Blue, but very similar and the whoopie slings seem to work well. I use a continuous loop attachment on each end of the hammock, 9" on the ripstop and 12" on the tablecloth. To connect the whoopie sling to the continuous loop, I use a 3/16" stainless steel screw pin shackle on each end of the hammock. It's convenient and provides a drip point for rain. I already had the shackles, so why not? These two shackles are also the attachment point for my ridgeline. My first ridgeline was a whoopie sling made from 1/8" Dyneema and has worked fine. My second ridgeline is what I will descrbe as a reverse whoopie sling made from 2.2mm Zing-It. The difference is that the constrictor is located on the tail end rather than inline near the fixed eye. The first thing that I noticed was that my constrictor tended to slip under load. I've made a number of whoopie slings from Zing-It, but none of them have been loaded as much as this ridgeline. I assumed that my constrictor bury was too short, so I made another one with about 50% more bury length. I got a chance to hang this hammock yesterday and I noticed that my ridgeline constrictor holds most of the time, but has a tendency to slip under load without warning. It will also slide if I reach up and touch the constrictor or slide my gear organizer into the constrictor. I noticed that the tension was distributed through the first half to two thirds of the constrictor and the tail end had no tension. This leads me to one of two possible conclusions. Zing-It doesn't make good whoopie slings when loaded heavily or the reverse whoopie sling construction doesn't hold reliably under load. I'm leaning toward the latter. I think that having the constrictor located near the tail leads to unpredictable loading conditions and is prone to slipping. I'll need to make a conventional whoopie sling out of Zing-It and see if it has the same problems. I'm betting that it won't.

  4. #944
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by wgiles View Post
    ...My second ridgeline is what I will descrbe as a reverse whoopie sling made from 2.2mm Zing-It. The difference is that the constrictor is located on the tail end rather than inline near the fixed eye. The first thing that I noticed was that my constrictor tended to slip under load. I've made a number of whoopie slings from Zing-It, but none of them have been loaded as much as this ridgeline. I assumed that my constrictor bury was too short, so I made another one with about 50% more bury length. I got a chance to hang this hammock yesterday and I noticed that my ridgeline constrictor holds most of the time, but has a tendency to slip under load without warning. It will also slide if I reach up and touch the constrictor or slide my gear organizer into the constrictor. I noticed that the tension was distributed through the first half to two thirds of the constrictor and the tail end had no tension. This leads me to one of two possible conclusions. Zing-It doesn't make good whoopie slings when loaded heavily or the reverse whoopie sling construction doesn't hold reliably under load. I'm leaning toward the latter. I think that having the constrictor located near the tail leads to unpredictable loading conditions and is prone to slipping. I'll need to make a conventional whoopie sling out of Zing-It and see if it has the same problems. I'm betting that it won't.
    I'm not sure what you're describing but it sounds like a UCR. If that's the case, you need a friction knot on the "loose" end of the constrictor to at least keep a minimum of tension on it. Here's a tutorial on making a UCR that includes the friction knot tensioner.

  5. #945
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    I'm not sure what you're describing but it sounds like a UCR. If that's the case, you need a friction knot on the "loose" end of the constrictor to at least keep a minimum of tension on it. Here's a tutorial on making a UCR that includes the friction knot tensioner.
    It's not a UCR, but it's similar. It is in fact a whoopie sling with the constrictor on the tail instead of in the body. The only real advantage of this type of construction is that you can shorten the loop without having to deal with a loose tail. The adjustable loop gets larger as the sling gets shorter, the reverse of a normal whoopie sling. One of my first thoughts when I first discovered this behavior was to secure the tail with some tape or a piece of cord tied in a knot over the tail and the body of the sling. If tension isn't kept on both ends of the constrictor, it may lose its grip. I've already made a conventional whoopie sling to try in place of my original. If it works, I'll just cut the line in front of the constrictor and make my other ridgelines into conventional whoopies. It is difficult to try to modify them because the actual tails are very short and you can't disassemble them without taking the fixed eye apart. I may try to make one using the friction knot tensioner, but it's just an academic exercise at this point.

  6. #946
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by wgiles View Post
    It's not a UCR, but it's similar....

    ... I may try to make one using the friction knot tensioner, but it's just an academic exercise at this point.
    Got it. Interesting. Yeah, a friction knot should work on it.

  7. #947
    New Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Upstate NY
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    GT Ultralight w/ DIY pad pockets
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattBigmonster View Post
    I'm playing with my whoopie slings and made a little mod that may be intersting to you.
    Dutch was kind enough to make extra long 8' slings for me (I had to hang once very asymetrically, long distance from one tree) and I have been thinking how to manage extra amsteel during normal hangs.

    I have used very simple chain plait where you basically pull loop through a loop through a loop... Start at the top and finish off by pulling the end through the last loop - easily done by hand.
    http://www.wikihow.com/Crochet-a-Chain-Stitch
    http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...in-stitch.html
    (Yes, I do know how to use a crochet ).

    It does not go tight so very easy to unravel when you need that bit of extra.
    Excellent stopper so the sling won't go inside itself.
    Very very mittens friendly.
    8' whoopies cost me extra 10-12 grams total...

    Hope it helps someone.
    YES! We use this in climbing to keep cords and webbing organized - "daisy chain."

    I just made my whoopie slings and an adjustable ridgeline (since I like to futz with stuff). The whoopie sling ends are quite long, and I know that will bug me. This would be a great way to shorten them and to prevent tangles! Why didn't I think of this?!

  8. #948
    New Member
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    Charlotte
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    This is a great guide and awesome pictures. Thanks for sharing it with us.
    Regards
    Rod
    Lake Norman Septic

  9. #949
    New Member
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    Apr 2013
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    Martinsville, VA
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    So.... what is the average length of whoopie's?

  10. #950
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    Quote Originally Posted by willic View Post
    So.... what is the average length of whoopie's?
    ~6' seems to be the standard.Since some suppliers sell amsteel in 25' lengths, it is common to cut that in half and be a bit under 6'.

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