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  1. #1
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    DIY Under/Top Quilt Design Questions

    I am about to start my first quilt project. I already have the materials on the way. I originally was going to go with a rectangular quilt. Now I am starting to think about tappering the foot end.

    I am planning on making 2 quilts. One with 2.5" and one with 3.5" of loft. Their weights should be about 20 and 27 respectively. I want to make both usable as a top and bottom quilt. I am planning on putting a head hole into the 2.5" quilt to wear as a poucho.

    I know the rectangular would be easier to make. But in the end I am more concerned with weight than ease of making. Plue hard projects are fun. I am thinking that I could shave a few oz with a tapered end. I am thinking that as an underquilt I will pull the drawstings compressing the quilt anyways (which will also compress the down some). A smaller footbox should be warmer since there will be less room from my body to heat.

    Question for those who have made one. Should I taper it, if so how much? I plan on setting up my nest tomorrow and taking some measurements to see how it feels. Switching from the sleeping bag to a quilt is already going to take 14oz out of my winter pack, getting my winter base well below 20lbs now. But a few more oz would be nice.
    Last edited by Coffee; 04-11-2007 at 00:01.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
    The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".

  2. #2
    slowhike's Avatar
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    i would taper it.
    w/o trying to give exact measurements of quilts that have worked for me, here are a few things that i think are important...
    like you said, small foot box is better. less space to heat.
    if it's warm, just pull your feet up out of that small space.
    i like the quilt to start flaring out wider pretty quickly as it separates at the foot box. this gives extra on the sides to keep it tucked at the knees & control drafts.
    and i hope you won't make the mistake of trying to save 1 or 2 more ozs by making it to narrow over all. if so, you'll probably regret it when you roll over on cold nights<g>.
    how do you plan to make the head hole?
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

  3. #3
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    I am thinking 48" wide after seams. I am going to test that out with my nest tomorrow. But I think that is wide enough.

    I plan on making a cotton prototype before I actually make it. So you are thinking a taper from the foot end to around the knees? I was thinking waist. Maybe I could do one taper to the knees and one from that too the waist.

    Not sure on the head hole yet. I was thinking in the middle. I plan on making the first one without the headhole and the second one with. That way the head hole is the only thing I need to concentrate on. I am thinking a prototype of this one too will be in order.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
    The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".

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    slowhike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammock engineer View Post
    . So you are thinking a taper from the foot end to around the knees? I was thinking waist. Maybe I could do one taper to the knees and one from that too the waist.
    on my next one i plan to make it angle out quickly as soon as it leaves the foot box connection. it will be full width by the time it gets to the hips maybe.
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

  5. #5
    slowhike's Avatar
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    check out the specs on the new cocoon line of quilts
    http://www.bozemanmountainworks.com/
    ultralight if you got the cash!
    after you pull up one of the quilts, click on "view sizing charts".
    don`t leave the CREATOR out of the creation!

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    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    check out the specs on the new cocoon line of quilts
    http://www.bozemanmountainworks.com/
    ultralight if you got the cash!
    after you pull up one of the quilts, click on "view sizing charts".
    Thanks for that link. Cool stuff. What are their prices like? Or is it one of those "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" type deals?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Arkwater's Avatar
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    The last quilt I made was 48" at both ends (3.25" loft). I calculated tapering the last 2' from 48" down to 40" for the footbox. By my calculations I would only save 15.6 grams (.55oz). I am glad I did not go to the trouble. When sinched up for a footbox it is snug around my size 11 feet. The high loft of the quilt takes up any open space around my feet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkwater View Post
    The last quilt I made was 48" at both ends (3.25" loft). I calculated tapering the last 2' from 48" down to 40" for the footbox. By my calculations I would only save 15.6 grams (.55oz). I am glad I did not go to the trouble. When sinched up for a footbox it is snug around my size 11 feet. The high loft of the quilt takes up any open space around my feet.
    Good point. I will crunch some numbers and see what my saving actually are. I think if I am only saving an oz, than it is probibly not worth it.
    Is that too much to ask? Girls with frikkin' lasers on their heads?
    The hanger formly known as "hammock engineer".

  9. #9
    Senior Member blackbishop351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkwater View Post
    The last quilt I made was 48" at both ends (3.25" loft). I calculated tapering the last 2' from 48" down to 40" for the footbox. By my calculations I would only save 15.6 grams (.55oz). I am glad I did not go to the trouble. When sinched up for a footbox it is snug around my size 11 feet. The high loft of the quilt takes up any open space around my feet.
    That weight savings seems a little small...did you account for the shell material you'd lose too? That's where most of the weight is for a down quilt anyway...
    "Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

  10. #10
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    I've been thinking about making a down quilts too. How do you calculate the amount of down you need with a taper?

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