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02-07-2009, 01:24   #3
Downunderhang
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hammock: Hennessy clone
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Quote:

I thought I'd play around with some maths to save on having to cut out a pattern for the top cover. Here it is if you want to use it:

I've based it on H4U's original diagram and added some more dimensions. A, B and C are as per the original diagram. As you can see the pattern has been rotated on the material to be cut. NB: This does mean that the ridge line does not follow the weave of the material but this wasn't a big deal for me.

The key measurements we are after is G - the width to be cut, H - the off-cut length, and, if you don't want to use the ridgeline measurement on the angle, the length of the material (not given a letter in my diagram). To get these measurements, we first need to calculate some other measurements - D, E and F as follows:

D = Square root of (C squared - B squared)
E = A - D
F = Square root of (E squared + B squared)

Now we can get G = B/F*A
And H = Square root of (C squared - G squared)
The length of the material to be cut from is F+H

So to cut the material measure off a length of F+H, cut it to a width of G. Then measure down H from the top right corner and cut from there to the top left corner in a straight line. Then measure up H from the bottom left corner and cut from there to the bottom right corner in a straight line.

I hope that helps - it worked for me.
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 03-01-2007, 20:36 #4 lvleph Senior Member     Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: RVA View my gallery 9 Posts: 728 Images: 9 Looking forward to the final result.
 03-01-2007, 20:53 #5 tamboo New Member   Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: a Posts: 6 That loop is a good idea, if you want to have your ridgeline inside the bug netting. Like you, I made a Hennessey hammock clone using wilsonbmw's pictures (thank you!). It rocks! I have never slept in a HH before, but even my homemade HH is more comfortable than previous, Speer style hammocks. I will post pics as soon as it is finished (had a scary fabric tearing incident earlier), but I wanted to speak up now because I couldn't believe someone had beaten me to the punch. I mean, the pictures have been up for what, a week? Some of you guys are lightning fast gearmakers!
 03-01-2007, 20:54 #6 Just Jeff Senior Member     Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Charlottesville, VA Hammock: Blackbird Tarp: MacCat Standard Insulation: Winter Yeti, MWUQ4 Suspension: Whoopie Slings View my gallery 32 Posts: 8,166 Images: 32 Great project...looking forward to testing results. Keep an eye on those ridgeline biners...I don't think they're load-bearing. Might work ok in this application depending on how much stress you put on the ridgeline. __________________ “Republics are created by the virtue, public spirit, and intelligence of the citizens. They fall when the wise are banished from the public councils because they dare to be honest, and the profligate are rewarded because they flatter the people, in order to betray them.” ~Judge Joseph Story - My site: http://www.tothewoods.net/ - Designer, Jeff's Gear Hammock / Pack Cover by JRB IMPOSSIBLE JUST TAKES LONGER
 03-17-2007, 17:02 #7 Spock Senior Member   Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 142 Headchane4u, I second JJ's caution about the ridgeline biners. They may have been minimally stressed with the spacing you tested the hammock at, but will carry much more stress if you set up with wider supports. An overlooked feature of the HH is that the ridge line keeps the sag of the hammock consistent over a wide range of support spacings. When supports are too close together, the ridge will sag, but as you space wider, the ridge comes into play to hold the sag of the hammock stable. When spacing is wide, the stress on the ridge line gets pretty stiff. Using the ridge line as part of the hammock structure is a good idea, and any hammock will benefit from it. I don't use biners at all, but tie the ridge line directly to loops at the ends of my home-made hammocks. I use a sheet bend to secure the webbing lines to the hammock, and sew a loop at the tied end of the webbing. That is where I attach the ridge line. You already have loops sewn to the hammock, and that will work, too.
03-17-2007, 19:03   #8
blackbishop351
Senior Member

Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Greensboro, NC
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Spock Headchane4u, I second JJ's caution about the ridgeline biners. They may have been minimally stressed with the spacing you tested the hammock at, but will carry much more stress if you set up with wider supports. An overlooked feature of the HH is that the ridge line keeps the sag of the hammock consistent over a wide range of support spacings. When supports are too close together, the ridge will sag, but as you space wider, the ridge comes into play to hold the sag of the hammock stable. When spacing is wide, the stress on the ridge line gets pretty stiff. Using the ridge line as part of the hammock structure is a good idea, and any hammock will benefit from it. I don't use biners at all, but tie the ridge line directly to loops at the ends of my home-made hammocks. I use a sheet bend to secure the webbing lines to the hammock, and sew a loop at the tied end of the webbing. That is where I attach the ridge line. You already have loops sewn to the hammock, and that will work, too.
I've got a small unrated/light rated biner in the ridgeline of my HH ULB, and I've hung it in just about every imaginable configuration that way. Hanging from wider-spaced trees definitely puts more tension on the ridgeline, but I haven't had any problems at all.
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 03-01-2007, 21:15 #9 Drop Senior Member     Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Manchester UK Hammock: hook and bag double Tarp: decathlon 3x3m Insulation: snugpak underquilt View my gallery 1 Posts: 122 Images: 1 That looks so good.* I look forward to seeing how the netting and overcover come out. Drop *it's a Headessey
03-02-2007, 08:49   #10
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
Hammock: Dual Layer WB Blackbird
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Drop *it's a Headessey
I like that.
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