going to make a gathered end hammock first but I am going to try this as soon as I get decent enough at sewing.
going to make a gathered end hammock first but I am going to try this as soon as I get decent enough at sewing.
This IS a gathered end hammock... Doesn't sound like a bad 1st project to me. I have the materials for my next hammock, and I'm interested in seeing how the non-rectangular shape affects the comfort, or allows a shorter hammock to be more comfortable...
Any input compared to a longer rectangular hammock?
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
It might be overkill as far as strength is concerned and would take up more material, but it would work.
Thanks for the kind words
You have the concept correct. Starting with a 30 inch side triangle and hemming it results in about 26 inch finished side. 43 inch long side turns into about 36 inches. I believe you only need about a 15 inch setback on the head end though. if you go a full 20 inches the side has to much sag, tie a knot in the head end, add whoopies and hang it up and check before hemming it.
There seems to be less back of knee pressure as compared to a square cut. It also allows it to be shorter, and gets better coverage under a tarp.
You could, without adding the footbox triangle, tie the diagonal cut bed with the Speer hammock knot on the ends and try it out first before sewing.
TZ
"Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda
Ok, so the current recommendation for your footbox hammock is 20" offset at the foot end (opposite side from the footbox) and 15" on the head end (same side as the footbox)?
Just want to make sure I have this right. I am definitely doing this mod before I hang again later this month. I already have my triangle hemmed up for it.
-Mike
Correct. The non footbox side cut material length would be about 100 inches
The footbox side of the hammock cut material length would be about 105 inches.
I would recommend sewing in the footbox triangle and hemming both sides and the footbox end. Then tie an overhand knot in the head end and hang it up for fit.
Use a ridgeline about 83% of the hammock length for a start point, between 80 and 90 inches.
You can adjust the amount of sag in the non footbox side at that point and shorten or lengthen the side to suit. Then finish cut the end and hem for the channel
So as I understand it trimming off both ends like you did will move the center of the hammock (hard to explain my meaning in word) giving more material where needed (foot side bottom right and head side top left) and less material where not needed (opposite feet and head). Am I correct on this one?
What does the zingit line in the hammock edge do. In the attached thumbnails in your first post it looks as though the footbox is really loose and so does the side your pushing out with your hand.
Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!
The zing it replaces any reinforcement patches on the corners of the triangle to the body. you could actually get in on the footbox side if you wanted to, and not tear the connection.
The footbox can flop over onto your feet, but if you slide down further it is tighter. My hammock model was not on a good diagonal either allowing the shoulder side to hang loose.
That is also why I suggested cutting only a 15 inch diagonal on the head end rather than 20.
TZ- I am looking at your diagram and wondering if you started with another 10" in length you could trim out the 30" x 30" x 43" triangle without having to use another piece of material. Yes, no, maybe so?
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