RL/Tarp line tensioner

**RePete** · 03-29-2011, 07:30

Originally Posted by Redoleary

Did you even alodine it?

Ok you piqued my interest in this one. We use the chemical alodine at work and I cant imagine how that would help. Cant wait for an explanation. I am assuming it is some type of machining term.

**gmcttr** · 03-29-2011, 09:25

Originally Posted by Redoleary

...Did you even alodine it?

It's just bare aluminum. I even had to Google alodine to find out what it is.

**Mike_O** · 03-29-2011, 10:37

I broke out the aluminum this moning before work. Red, it looks like you are leaving 1/8" between the holes, is that correct? If so, how is the strength side to side.

**Redoleary** · 03-29-2011, 15:54

Originally Posted by otter46544

Ok you piqued my interest in this one. We use the chemical alodine at work and I cant imagine how that would help. Cant wait for an explanation. I am assuming it is some type of machining term.

Thats why I was sort of surprised, it would not likely have much benefit in this application. Its just used to protect the metal, I use it all the time at work on bare AL before I prime or paint it.

Originally Posted by gmcttr

It's just bare aluminum. I even had to Google alodine to find out what it is.

In the pictures it had sort of a golden hue, that basically looks like a piece of
AL that has been alodined. I thought "man this guy's serious!"

Originally Posted by Mike_O

I broke out the aluminum this moning before work. Red, it looks like you are leaving 1/8" between the holes, is that correct? If so, how is the strength side to side.

Have not noted any problems to date with them bending in any manor. I prolly wouldn't go any less than an 1/8".

**gmcttr** · 03-29-2011, 16:59

Same tensioner as in post #29...trimmed down and cleaned up a bit. Just drop the end of the line between the two lines coming off of the "tree" to lock it.

Thanks for the idea Red.

**Redoleary** · 03-29-2011, 17:20

Originally Posted by gmcttr

Same tensioner as in post #29...trimmed down and cleaned up a bit. Just drop the end of the line between the two lines coming off of the "tree" to lock it.

Thanks for the idea Red.

Well done sir, and you're welcome. I looks like a fishbone, I like it a lot.

**SmokeBait** · 03-29-2011, 17:29

Originally Posted by gmcttr

Same tensioner as in post #29...trimmed down and cleaned up a bit. Just drop the end of the line between the two lines coming off of the "tree" to lock it.

Thanks for the idea Red.

Like that fish design! When you or Red are ready to go into full time production, lemme know

**rjcress** · 03-29-2011, 17:37

Originally Posted by gmcttr

Same tensioner as in post #29...trimmed down and cleaned up a bit. Just drop the end of the line between the two lines coming off of the "tree" to lock it.

Thanks for the idea Red.

Lookin' good Red and gmcttr.

This is almost exactly the idea I've been noodling around for about a week. (looks like Dutch and A.S. inspired some folks)
Only differences:
-I would lop off the bottom section of the fish's tail and just use the other lower protrusion (the fish's, uh... boy part) as the other 1/2 of the cleat.
-I would also make the circle smaller

That would save some weight.

**gmcttr** · 03-29-2011, 17:44

Originally Posted by SmokeBait

Like that fish design! When you or Red are ready to go into full time production, lemme know

Too much labor with my manual mill. Some one with a cnc is welcome too have at it.

**Redoleary** · 03-29-2011, 18:09

I made one like this yesterday, just to see how it would work w/o the side scallops, and it worked exactly like the rest, plus its only one inch square.....far less cool looking but smaller and probably lighter. Didn't get a chance to weigh it today at work, maybe tomorrow.