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Thread: How to splice?

  1. #1
    Senior Member GaryBunk's Avatar
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    How to splice?

    I can't seem to find any vids on splicing a fixed loop in to amsteel. Just so I an clear on what I am trying to do, I want to spliced a length of amsteel in to an existing piece of amsteel. Like a dropper loop or line off of a main line. Instead of using prussiks on my whoopie slings to attach UQ suspensions to I want to splice in section of either amstell or better yet some 2.2 zing-it that has a loop spliced into it into the whoopie. It would be better with a picture but this is the best I can do. Thanks
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    Senior Member Chenvre's Avatar
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    Have a look at this thread: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=56527

    Is this what you are looking to do? there's a video halfway down the first page as well that might be what you need.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    Here's a continuous loop tutorial.

    You could easily just open the weave of the amsteel and pass a piece of zing-it thru that hole then splice the zing-it into a loop. Am I seeing what you want to achieve correctly?
    Good luck,
    RED

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    Senior Member GaryBunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chenvre View Post
    Have a look at this thread: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=56527

    Is this what you are looking to do? there's a video halfway down the first page as well that might be what you need.

    I was afraid this would be hard so I'll try to do a better job. I want to take a section of line and splice a loop in the end, just like one half of a dog bone. Say a loop and 6 '' of line. I want to take that and splice it into a standing line.

    I want to take a section of 2.2 zing it, if possible and splice that into my whoopie slings between the hammock and where the burry exits as a dropper.

    In climbing you would use an alpine butterfly and attach to the loop, I want to just splice in a section of line??

    I hope this helps???
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    Senior Member GaryBunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redoleary View Post
    Here's a continuous loop tutorial.

    You could easily just open the weave of the amsteel and pass a piece of zing-it thru that hole then splice the zing-it into a loop. Am I seeing what you want to achieve correctly?

    Yes I think so. I guess I was wondering if I would be better to stay with amsteel ( same size line ) or if 2.2 would work? I assume you would just weave it up and then back down and then burry? Will that hold the smaller line?


    Thanks
    - Gary -

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    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    If all you're doing is hanging a quilt from it, I wouldn't try to splice a mid line loop into it, I would just pierce it with a fid pass thru the zing-it and turn that into a loop. It would look like your whoopie had an earring or something.
    Good luck,
    RED

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    Senior Member Fish<><'s Avatar
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    This thread got me thinking about something...thanks garybunk. I'll give you credit when I am done assembling what I have planned.
    "We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it."- G. W. Sears

    My forum name is Fish<><; I'm in the navy; and I hate sleeping on the ground. If I didn't need ground to walk on or measure resistance to, I think I could happily give it up.

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    Senior Member Chenvre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryBunk View Post
    I was afraid this would be hard so I'll try to do a better job. I want to take a section of line and splice a loop in the end, just like one half of a dog bone. Say a loop and 6 '' of line. I want to take that and splice it into a standing line.

    I want to take a section of 2.2 zing it, if possible and splice that into my whoopie slings between the hammock and where the burry exits as a dropper.

    In climbing you would use an alpine butterfly and attach to the loop, I want to just splice in a section of line??

    I hope this helps???
    I have not tried splicing 2 different sizes of amsteel together, so I would have to refer you to the resident experts here to chime in as to whether or not that is possible, and if so, what are the proper techniques?

    I'm wondering if making a fixed loop on one end of your small cord cord and using a prusik or lark's head knot to attach it to the thicker cord would be what you are looking for? I'm not sure you would be able to splice and bury if the point of force on your small rope is not along the rope it's buried into (locked or not).

    Don't let splicing seem too intimidating though, I did my first continuous loop with 1.9mm Tech line, and I learned a lot in a very short amount of time. Be warned, when you start splicing, it's addicting!


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    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    Yes, you can bury any line in any other Dyneema line, and it will constrict on it. Sew some stitches to stop it from slipping before tension is applied.

    How long the bury? That is hard to know without trial. But, I would start with a buried section of smaller line as long as you would make it if the line were the size of the sleeve.

    I've asked around about whether the current recommendation of 70-72 diameters is because of slipperiness or because of greater tensile strength. (Polyester line is 1/3 the strength of Amsteel, so it doesn't have the opportunity to slip at greater loads. It has already broken.) I haven't gotten an informed answer.

  10. #10
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryBunk View Post
    I can't seem to find any vids on splicing a fixed loop in to amsteel. Just so I an clear on what I am trying to do, I want to spliced a length of amsteel in to an existing piece of amsteel. Like a dropper loop or line off of a main line. Instead of using prussiks on my whoopie slings to attach UQ suspensions to I want to splice in section of either amstell or better yet some 2.2 zing-it that has a loop spliced into it into the whoopie. It would be better with a picture but this is the best I can do. Thanks
    Yes, you can do this. The problem will arise when you load the section of line down from there you inserted the loop. An eye escapes the line derate because the load is split between the two legs, essentially the legs of the eye carry the load and the working end constricts on the bury tail. The insertion point is a weak spot. Creating an insertion point within the working part without the physics of splitting the load will weaken the working end. So size the line to accept some derate.

    You might be better off taking your short section with the eye in it and performing an "S" brummel. Similar to a normal locked brummel in that you split the strands in half and insert your short section. But with this youll just run the short section down the line using only the end from your short section. Then continue this for roughly 4 passes and then you can do a backsplice on the end to keep it locked in the line. Make sure you make your passes in the opposite direction you load it so the pull is linear.

    Make sense?
    Last edited by opie; 08-05-2012 at 18:35.

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